Alaska was to be the fourth of our cruise destinations on our cruise check list. We had originally booked an Inside Passage Cruise but Holland American changed the cruise to an Alaskan Explorer Cruise sometime after we booked in November 2001. The itinerary was basically the same except for more time spent out in the Pacific Ocean rather that the Inside Passage. Regardless, we were ready for an Alaskan adventure when August finally arrived. Another reason we wanted this cruise was for the port of departure, Seattle, Washington, which is roughly a 4-½ hour drive from our home.
We arrived in Seattle on Saturday, August 10th, by 11 am and had some time to explore the piers on the waterfront. At 12:30 pm we parked our vehicle in the parking facility directly across from the HAL cruise ship terminal. They even supply a walkway over the roadway. Our luggage was carted away, we went up to the embarkation area, checked in, were given a number an told to wait until our number was called at which time we would be allowed onboard the Amsterdam. We waited approximately 1 hour and boarded the ship at 2 pm.
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We had an outside cabin on the Lower Promenade Deck (located nearer the bow of the ship), which was clean and nicely decorated in tan, gold, orange and brown with dark blue carpeting. Not the colors I would decorate a new ship with but they didn't ask me J. Exploring the ship was interesting as it was not too glitzy, not too drab, not too elegant, but just about right for all tastes. It felt like it could be home for a week. The main areas we tend to use are the dining room (very pretty with 2 floors), the showroom (you can see well from all seats), the casino (just enough different slot machines and tables), and the buffet restaurant (basically the same on all ships). All of these areas and the others we visited occasionally suited us just fine.
Our travel agent had booked us with the Virtuoso Voyager Club so we were treated to some extras, which turned out to be a great deal. We had a wonderful cocktail party in the Crow's Nest Lounge and enjoyed appetizers and drinks while waiting for departure. During the rest of the week we also were treated to another cocktail party, a 5 hour excursion in Ketchikan which included a jet boat trip and visit to Salmon Falls Resort, a replica of the MS Amsterdam enclosed in an acrylic case, a Blue Delft plate, made in Holland, with the dates and ports painted on (Amsterdam painted in the center), a $100 shipboard credit and a free 8x10 photo. Be sure to ask your travel agent if they are affiliated with Virtuoso so you can get some of these perks in future cruising.
I am not one to write much about all of the ship amenities or comment too much on the cuisine. Holland America does a nice job in all areas and I would recommend cruising with them any time. The ship was wonderful and had all of the same things the other lines I have traveled with. They did have an Ice Cream Bar, which we visited several times. They use ice milk not real ice cream but it was cold and sweet so I won't complain too much. Also, the Coffee Bar was nice too. Cappuccinos and Lattes were good. The food in the dining room was average. My only real complaint would be that some things were not served hot enough. The selections in each course seemed limited compared to my recollection of Princess and RCCL. The food was fine and tasty. The desserts were mediocre. The dining room experience should make your mouth water weeks after the cruise is over. Sorry HAL. I can usually gain a few pounds on a cruise but I actually lost 2 pounds this time.
Now on to the cruise itself:
Day One - At Sea
Our first day was spent making our way from Seattle's Puget Sound to Chatham Strait. We did catch a glimpse of two Orcas whales late in the day on Sunday. Other than that it was ocean with a few views of mountains and islands in the far distance. Later in the evening the winds came up and the waves got bigger (5 feet plus) and I retired early with a queasy stomach.
Day Two - Juneau, Alaska
We docked in Juneau at 9:30 am and were off the ship at 10 am for our excursion. We had booked the Mendenhall Glacier, Wildlife and Whale Watching Quest. They loaded us on the bus and took us on a brief city tour (15 minutes) and off to Auk Bay where our tour boats waited for us. Our tour took us up Lynn Canal. We saw bald eagles, sea lions and lots of whales. About 2 hours into the 3-hour trip the rain started but we were all so thrilled at the humpback whales all over the place we didn't mind. When the winds picked up and the waters got choppy we headed back in. They loaded us on the bus again and we headed to a foggy, wet peek at Mendenhall Glacier. The US Ranger Station was without power as the winds had knocked down a tree and took out the power all around the island. On the way back to the ship we found out that the 2 ships parked in Auk Bay when we came by on the way to the glacier were unable to go up to Skagway due to the high winds. Those folks had spent the day sitting on their ships in Auk Bay. Back in Juneau we met with friends for several hours. They have lived in Juneau for the past 20 years. It was good to hear all about the area from the locals. The ship left port at 10 pm heading north to Yakutat Bay and Hubbard Glacier.
Day Three - Hubbard Glacier
The storm had really set in by late Monday night and early Tuesday morning. The swells were up to 10 feet and both of us were seasick big time L all night. Remember we were at the bow. The Pacific Ocean can be a real beast. My husband, who has pretty good sea legs, was down for the count too. We finally were able to get some rest when the ship entered Yakutat Bay about 10 am. The ship reached Hubbard Glacier about 1 pm. The fog was still thick and the face of the glacier was just visible. The captain was able to get the ship within four tenths of a mile from the glacial face. This is closer than any reviews I have read. I think that since it was so rainy and foggy he felt sorry for us and pulled in as close as he dare get. We watched and listened to the glacier for about 2 hours. There was no calving but the moans and groans and cracking was awesome sounding. We headed out of Disenchantment Bay at 3 pm on our way to Sitka. Husband and I made our way to the infirmary for Sea-Calm, which worked perfect the rest of the cruise.
Here is a bit of another story pertaining to Hubbard Glacier I thought review readers might like to hear about. Hubbard Glacier had advanced in the past few months closing Russell Fiord to a trickle of a stream into Disenchantment Bay. It was now called Russell Lake. The waters had risen to over 60 feet above sea level causing concern amongst the geologists and scientist watching the area. In the early morning hours of August 14th the rain waters and lake waters burst the sediment dam pushed by the glacier into Gilbert Point. On August 15th photos taken of the area showed a 300-foot wide opening between the glacier and Gilbert Point. The waters of Russell Lake had gone from 61 feet above sea level to 16 feet above sea level and Russell Lake was now Russell Fiord again. Our ship had been right at the face of the glacier very close to the sediment dam at Gilbert Point in the early afternoon of August 13th. I, for one, am very thankful the dam did not burst while we were parked at the glacier. I shudder to think of what could have happened. The Good Lord was watching over the MS Amsterdam and her passengers on August 13th, 2002. If this has peeked your interest there is a wonderful web site regarding the whole incident at www.fs.fed.us/r10/tongass. The pictures are worth the look.
Day Four - Sitka, Alaska
A beautiful, sunny day greeted us in Sitka. After a day and a half of rain we were ready for sunshine. The ship anchored in Sitka Sound and we were tendered in. Sitka is a beautiful, little city on Baranof Island. We walked about the city enjoying the shops and sights. Totem Square, Sitka National Historical Park Visitor Center, St. Michael's Cathedral, Sitka Lutheran Church, and Isabel Miller Museum at Harrigan Centennial Hall were amongst our day in Sitka. We also had the chance to watch the New Archangel Russian Dancers perform. We tendered back to the ship at 4pm and the ship set sail at 6 pm. Making our way out of Sitka Sound was spectacular with the mountains rising out of the waters on a glorious, warm, sunny evening. We intend to make Sitka a point of return some day.
Day Five - Ketchikan
As if the weather could get better, well it did for our day in Ketchikan. We sailed through Clarence Strait to arrive at Ketchikan at 7 am. Our Salmon Falls Jet Boat Excursion, compliments of Virtuoso Voyagers Club was set for 11 am so we went shopping for a couple of hours in the morning. After buying canned sockeye salmon, Ulu knives, a couple of pieces of tanzanite jewelry and the souvenir mugs (I was told no more tee shirts J). We loaded on a bus for Salmon Falls Resort, which is 20 miles north of Ketchikan on Behm Canal. We loaded onto jet boats for a 3-hour trip up the canal up to the north end of Revillagigedo Island and back to the lodge for drinks and snacks. Since the ship was sailing at 3 pm they had us back at 2:30 just in time for last boarding. Leaving Ketchikan through Revillagigedo Channel was breath taking in the afternoon sunshine. The blue of the waters and the green of the mountains were awesome. A roll of pictures later we were into Dixson Entrance and sailed to Hecate Strait.
Day Six - At Sea and Victoria, British Columbia
>From Hecate Strait we sailed the Inside Passage through Queen Charlotte Sound then proceeded into the Pacific Ocean to Victoria BC. The marine fog was thick as we traveled along the western side of Vancouver Island. We arrived in Victoria at 7 pm where the fog had dissipated and the evening sun was still shining. We were bussed from the cruise ship docks into downtown Victoria. Our 3 hours stop was far too short but since I had just been there in April for 5 days I was not nearly as disappointed as many of my fellow passengers. Victoria is a lovely port and a full day still would not have been enough time to see the sights this city has to offer. We walked through the Empress Hotel, shopped downtown as the shops near the harbor stay open late for the cruise ships. It was a lovely evening in Victoria. The ship sailed at 11 pm for disembarkation in Seattle at 7 am the next day.
Day Seven - Seattle, Washington
Arriving in Seattle at 7 am we ate our last breakfast in the Lido Restaurant and then waited for our number to be called to disembark. Since we did not have a plane to catch we were near the tail end of the passengers to get off the ship at 9:30 am. Customs was a breeze. Our luggage was waiting for us. I waited on the curb while my husband got the vehicle and we were on the road heading home at 10:30 am. I was impressed with disembarkation. It was just like clock work.
So this completes my review of the Holland America Alaska Explorer Cruise. If I were to give the overall experience a rating it would have to be an 8 on a scale of 1 to 10 (10 being the highest). I can't fault HAL for the weather, which did take away from the glacier experiences. Both glaciers were fogged in. And of course 10-foot waves are a bit more than my tummy can handle but then again the Pacific Ocean is not known for it's calm waters J. I really did want an Inside Passage Cruise so I will have to try it again just to make sure I get to do just that. The food has come to play a less important part since this is my 4th cruise but HAL could make the dining experience just a bit more creative and extravagant. Alaska is a sight to see and every cruiser should experience it at least once.
Please email me at diamondeb1954@yahoo.com if there are questions or more information I can supply for you. Thank you for the opportunity of allowing me to share my Alaskan Cruise with you.
