Gathering by the door, we spring ashore as soon as the gangway goes down,
since we only have 30 minutes to explore this small Norwegian town. Fanning
out in all directions, we walk for exactly 15 minutes before turning around,
confidently re-boarding moments before the gangway is lifted and the ship
sails for the next port, four hours up the coast. We are used to the routine:
Since Norwegian Coastal Voyages' itinerary covers 64 ports in 12 days, we
have had plenty of practice.
Known to Norwegians as the Hurtigruten, the coastal voyage remains one of the
most unique sea trips around, blending cruise ship comforts with cargo ship purpose and aura. With departures each day from Bergen, proceeding along the
western coast of Norway, above the North Cape and all the way to the Russian
border and back, the Hurtigruten has been a vital part of life along the
coast for more than 100 years.
Today, the service is still used by the locals like a bus, as it hops between
remote villages and transports an astonishing variety of essential cargo.
Persons who take the full trip will share the ship with day passengers--maybe
a family traveling with their dog, a school group out for an afternoon
excursion, or a bridal party in full wedding regalia celebrating en masse on
their way to the next town. By sailing on the Hurtigruten, you aren't just
taking a cruise: You are being integrated into a culture and seeing one of
the last routes where sea travel is a part of daily life.
On my mid-September sailing, the trip lived up to its reputation as "The
World's Most Beautiful Voyage." We sailed miles inland through the
spectacular Geirangerfjord on a warm, sunny day, with lush mountains towering
thousands of feet overhead and waterfalls dripping down on either side. We
navigated through narrow channels and constantly skirted rocky outcroppings
in the middle of the night, and witnessed the jagged peaks of the Lofoten
Islands rising from the ocean.
Further north, the green hills and quaint farming communities gave way to a
harsh Arctic climate (more than half your trip is spent above the Arctic
Circle), as mountains became blanketed with snow near the North Cape. At
night, groups of us huddled out on deck to watch for the Northern Lights;
sightings every other night included some pulsating shapes and colors that
left us in awe.
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If you stay on for the entire 12-day roundtrip voyage, you will visit 32
different ports but stop 64 times, as the same ports are visited northbound
and southbound. However, if you only go one way, you'll see only half the
story, because the ports you visit during the day northbound are visited at
night southbound. The six-day one-way is a wonderful trip, but the full
flavor of the coast and the true bonding with the ship and passengers really
occurs on the full roundtrip.
Because the ship is used for transportation, port calls are often limited to
30 minutes; only a few major ports offer longer stays of four to six hours.
But that's part of the fun. All of these small villages can be explored on
foot in that time, and everyone relishes their quick jaunts into each town.
They become so much fun that most passengers flock ashore for a walk even
when the ship docks at 11 p.m.
Passengers come from the U.S., the U.K. and Germany, but are all like-minded:
They appreciate the lack of organized entertainment and are content simply to
lie on deck reading, stand at the rail watching the passing landscape, or
chat in one of the ship's attractive lounges. On my trip, the only
entertainment was a traveling local band that played folk music before lunch
one day, and a guitarist at night. Consequently, an old-fashioned bond
develops among the passengers from the time spent clustered on deck or racing
ashore, as everyone delights in the joys of the Hurtigruten.
Another important distinction between the Hurtigruten and conventional
cruises is in the food. On the coastal voyage, you won't find a tremendous
variety and abundance of food. Breakfast and lunch are buffets with a good
variety, but a strong focus on Norwegian food (i.e. an astounding variety of
seafood and fish). Dinner consists of a fixed menu with appetizer, main
course and dessert. The menu is posted during the day, so if the entree
(which is usually fish every other day) is not appealing, you can ask for
something different beforehand. The food is hearty and good, but not gourmet.
During the peak season, lunch and dinner are at assigned tables with two
seatings.
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There are now four different types of ships operating on the Hurtigruten,
each with a different style. The 650-berth "Millennium Class" ships are new
in 2002 and feature balconies, swimming pools and saunas. They are very
similar to smaller, modern cruise ships. The six "new" ships, all built in
the 1990s, accommodate approximately 460 passengers in a slightly more
intimate but still very modern and attractive ship. Three "mid generation"
ships, however, left me cold-they lacked the amenities and beauty of the
newer ships, and also the charm of the "traditional" ships. If possible,
avoid sailing on these ships.
Two "traditional" ships, built in the 1960s, still sail on the Hurtigruten
during the off-season and are the most authentic way to experience Norway.
Adorned in rich wood paneling and accommodating a maximum of 150 passengers,
these ships have a log-cabin coziness. Cabins are tiny (some even lack
private bathrooms), but the charm and atmosphere (including a significantly
smaller percentage of Americans) more than make up for it. If you can do
without elevators and balconies, sail these well-maintained, historic ships
before they are retired within a year or two.
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The summer season is the most popular (and crowded), as passengers come to
see the Land of the Midnight Sun and enjoy the relatively warm weather. A
full program of worthwhile shore excursions is offered then, ranging from
inland visits to glaciers to trips to the North Cape and a Sami reindeer
farm. The winter season provides an amazing chance to experience dramatic
Arctic landscapes, but most shore-side attractions will be closed, and
weather can be rough. Possibly the best time to sail is the shoulder season
in September and April: The attractions are still open, but the crowds are
gone. (The North Cape typically gets 6,000 visitors a day during the summer;
when I went in mid-September, we 35 passengers were the only ones there.) The
weather in the south is still warm, you get the chance to see some of the
winter landscape up north, and you have a good chance of seeing the Northern
Lights.
No matter when you go, however, you'll be among the fortunate few to
experience this most memorable voyage and see Norway the way it was meant to
be seen.
Prices range from $122 per person, per day for the lowest cabins to $163 for
junior suites, with the top suites going for up to $500 per person per day.
Significant savings exist, however, for seniors, AARP members, and for all
passengers during the shoulder and winter seasons. One-way trips are
available, and Norwegian Coastal now offers a series of pre- and post-cruise
land excursions to round out your stay in Northern Europe.
For more information, contact Norwegian Coastal Voyages at (800) 666-2374 for
brochures, (800) 323-7436 for general information, or visit
www.coastalvoyage.com.
