Anyone who's tired of the sardine-can hustle and bustle of intercontinental
air travel today will find that a transatlantic voyage on Cunard's Queen
Elizabeth 2 is a return to grace and elegance--a reminder of how leisurely
and luxurious travel used to be. For six glorious days, you are suspended in
time...wrapped in a cocoon of steel, teak, luxurious accouterments, good food
and fine service.
I had not sailed on the QE2 for almost 20 years, so I jumped at the
opportunity to experience this historic ship once again. The trip was
arranged on such short notice that I didn't even have time for ticket
delivery. Instead, I hopped in a cab to Manhattan's West Side docks, told
them I was booked, and was accepted with no problems. A young, white-gloved
steward escorted me to my cabin, a vast space (378 square feet!) on One Deck.
Within minutes, the stewardess was there to greet me and tell me she is
available for assistance at any time.
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Sailing out of New York's harbor is always an experience. As the ship's horn
sounds its deep, throaty blast, the mooring lines are loosed. Tugs begin
their assist as the QE2 edges her way into the Hudson River and heads south,
past the city skyline glistening in the afternoon sun. Passengers line the
rails and fill every inch of open space to watch the spectacle. Then it's on
past the Statue of Liberty and under the Verrazano Bridge into the Atlantic.
Time to unpack and explore. Since this was once a two-class ship, with some
areas restricted only to First Class passengers and others open to everybody
else, getting around can be a little strange. For example, there are
stairways that bypass certain decks in one part of the ship and not in
another. But each cabin is provided with a handy little map. After all, this
ship was once called a "City at Sea," and it still is.
Passengers sailing across the North Atlantic may be isolated from land for
six days, but they will never be bored. The QE2 has a tremendous range of
activities to keep you occupied, from absorbing lectures to exercise classes,
bridge games, bingo, the inevitable art auction, daily movies, and even a
heritage tour. This fascinating journey through Cunard's and QE2's history is
well worth the hour it takes to walk through the ship and view some of the
memorabilia and artwork spread throughout the vessel. You can also work out
in the gym, or visit the 16-station computer center and take a class there,
go online and surf the web, or check your email. And this is just in daytime!
The Queens Room Click for Pic
Once the sun sets, the ship blossoms into a floating advertisement for
elegance. Tuxedos appear along with the rustle of evening gowns. Of course,
not everyone dresses formally, but for those who do, this is the perfect
stage for showing off your costly couture. The dress code lists four nights
as formal and two as informal, but gentlemen in suits and ladies in pantsuits
or fancy summer dresses are equally at home. Intimate bars entice you to chat
and enjoy a quiet drink. Then there is the Golden Lion Pub, where karaoke
night can be pretty raucous, but it's great fun. Try dancing in the Queens
Room, disco in the Yacht Club, a show in the Grand Lounge or another visit to
the Casino. In addition to the movies available on the cabin TV, one or two
daily features are presented in the ship's movie theater. And there are
special activities for teens, too. No, you won't be bored on QE2!
Now that the vessel has matured into a Grand Dame of the sea, the money that
Carnival Corporation has poured into the ship has been well worth it. All the
cabins have taken on a new ambience, and visually, the restaurants and public
areas too are glowing. Although the ship's second outdoor pool was removed in
a previous renovation, the addition of the Lido buffet brings today's QE2 in
line with our more casual lifestyle. For anyone with children in tow, it is
ideal for breakfast or lunch. A really nice spot is the Pavilion. Hidden
behind the pool and below the Lido, this small caf�-style room serves only
early-bird breakfast, a light grill lunch and Children's Tea. The limited
menu includes hamburgers, hot dogs, really good minute steaks and French
fries. Plus, there is a self-serve soft ice cream machine in the corner. Yum!
Not to be missed is Afternoon Tea in the Queens Room. White-gloved staff will
ply you with tea, scones, sandwiches and pastries while you relax in deep,
comfy chairs, entertained by a harpist or small orchestra.
Relaxing On Deck Click for Pic
The weather on my crossing was spectacular: unimaginably warm and sunny for
July in the North Atlantic. I immediately gravitated to one of the
traditional steamer chairs on deck, all nicely weathered. Like many of my
fellow passengers I succumbed to the sound of the sea and the wind, the
rhythm of the voyage. As we passed Georges Bank on the second day, we were
blessed with a view of two humpback whales breaching, lobtailing and
generally cavorting. Since this had been billed as a family voyage, there
were lots of children aboard who seemed to be enjoying themselves immensely.
I never got to try one of the on-deck whirlpools because they were always
full. And the pool, small by today's standards, was quite popular.
Over the years I had heard many stories, pro and con, about QE2's food and
service. Well, I can say that what I experienced was very good on both
counts. If you can, book a cabin category that gives you access to the Queens
Grill, a lovely dining room near the top of the ship with its own private
lounge for afternoon tea or drinks before dinner. Another perk of Queens
Grill is ordering things that aren't on the menu. If there is something your
heart desires and it's in the ship's stores, you can order it -- in advance,
please.
Too soon it's over, and Southampton looms on the horizon. I took the bus
transfer to Heathrow and flew right back to the U.S., along with a few other
ship nuts who only wanted the crossing. Cunard and British Airways have
worked together for decades offering a package combining a QE2 voyage in one
direction and a flight the other way. What better way to end your elegant
adventure than in the luxury of a British Airways first class seat? I had a
window pod (actually facing backward), and although I didn't recline fully
and sleep since it was afternoon, I found it very comfortable and a wonderful
end to a fantastic trip. I'm addicted, and looking at the calendar to see
when I can sail again.
