The sea, the sun and the sky are part of every cruise. But add the sails and
you get something special. I recently tested the Star Clippers experience,
and it was a perfect vacation-- sailing on a romantic clipper ship with just
a few fellow passengers; having daily chats with a friendly captain and crew;
exploring the culture of destinations not available to most tourists; and
enjoying pleasant dinners served by an attentive staff. We could choose
daily activities ranging from morning workouts to island adventures to simply
lazing in the sun and staring up at the sails.
The Star Clippers ships were designed to provide the activities, amenities,
and atmosphere of a private yacht. Company owner and CEO Mikael Krafft
envisioned this mega-yacht experience as an alternative to mass-market
cruises that is in harmony with nature and the sea. Star Clippers' fleet
includes three sailing ships: the twins Star Clipper and Star Flyer,
commissioned in the early 1990s; and the Royal Clipper, the largest true
sailing clipper ship in the world, commissioned in 2000.
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My husband and I recently returned from a week's sail through the Windward
Isles of the Caribbean aboard Star Clipper. This is a new itinerary for the
Clipper, which usually spends summers in the Mediterranean. The cruise
departs from Bridgetown, Barbados-a port easily accessible by major airlines.
From there, the ship crosses over to Antigua and then sails south, visiting St. Bart's, St. Kitts, Isles
des Saintes and St. Lucia before returning to Barbados. Many passengers opt
to combine this schedule with an alternating Leeward Islands itinerary into a
14-day cruise.
General Impressions
It's always a thrill to see the masts of a beautiful sailing ship in a
harbor-and more exciting when you know that you will soon be boarding her! We
saw Star Clipper reigning over the port at Bridgetown as we flew into
Barbados. A representative from the line met us at the airport and put us in
a taxi to the pier. The cheerful staffers-who hail from all over the
world-welcomed us with a champagne cocktail upon boarding. We quickly
unpacked and headed back to the deck to begin our sailing adventure. After a
sumptuous buffet dinner, we returned to the deck to see the captain raise the
sails as the ship glided smoothly out to sea.
The first day was spent at sea-an unparalleled treat for those who love to
sail. The beauty of the ocean was unsurpassed, and there were enough islands
off in the distance to allow us to indulge thoughts of Christopher Columbus
as he sailed these waters and spotted land for the first time. We should
note that we had been warned ahead of time that this area of the Atlantic
could be rough, so we brought an over-the-counter motion sickness medication.
The cruise had plenty of memorable highlights. The first was a lovely beach
picnic/cookout when we anchored at Falmouth, Antigua. Star Clipper's
energetic staff is dedicated to water activities, so in addition to enjoying
the picnic and simply lazing on the beach, passengers could take their pick
of small sailboats, a banana-boat (like tubing on a giant banana), snorkeling
or water skiing. A local steel band came on board for an hour of evening
entertainment.
The third day's anchorage was at St. Bart's-a great shopping destination for
those with great budgets. We opted instead for a short hike to the Shell
Beach and a cool drink at a lovely bar overlooking the water there. A
personal note: By Day Three, I had literally forgotten what day of the week
it was-the hallmark of a relaxing vacation!
At St. Kitts we came across the mega-liner Millennium, which provided an
interesting contrast to our full-rigged sailing ship. Passengers aboard the
large ship crowed the deck to get a glimpse of Star Clipper. An odd irony:
Star Clippers' ships boast more deck space per passenger than the giant
cruisers! With unrestrained glee, Captain Klaus Muller fired three warning
shots from a toy cannon before he raised the sheets and proudly sailed out of
the harbor under the envious eyes of Millenium passengers.
Our favorite anchorage was among the Isles des Saintes, where we tendered
into the little town of Terre de Haut. This lovely island boasts a
breathtaking hike ("La Trace des Cretes") that concludes at the most
beautiful strand of sand (Pompierre Beach) I have ever seen. The sleepy
European-flavored town is lovely, and has several unusual (and reasonably
priced) shops.
Our favorite meal was the Captain's Dinner, held after our day at Terre de
Haut. The chef pulled out all the stops, going beyond his usual excellence
to a meal that was sublime. The crowning touch was the requisite "Parade of
Baked Alaska," an event I have come to loathe on large cruise ships due
mostly to the inedible nature of the concoction it is named for. But this
confection was delicious, and worthy of the serving ceremony.
My favorite evening's entertainment was the talent show. It was
well-organized by Cruise Director Mara, and Ivan, the ship's resident
musician, and included both passengers and crew, who provided a rapt audience
with a selection of song and dance from around the world. The success of
this event reflects the friendly atmosphere on the ship throughout the
cruise.
Cabins
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Cabins, in six categories, are huge by sailing-ship standards. All are
beautifully appointed, and have ample storage for clothes and beach gear.
Category 6 cabins, the least expensive, have a pair of upper and lower berths
and are most suitable for children traveling with parents, or singles
traveling together who don't plan to spend much time inside. Categories 3-5
have two lower beds or a double bed; many also have a berth for a third
person. These are priced according to deck (higher decks are most expensive)
and convenience of location. Category 2 cabins are slightly larger and
located on the Clipper deck, adjacent to the dining room. Cabins in Category
1 are lovely, appointed with minibar and whirlpool. All but Category 6 come
with a TV, and are comfortable for lounging as well as sleeping. I agree
with hotel manager Florian, whose favorites are the two Category 1 cabins
closest to the aft pool-these cabins have close access to the aft deck, and
provide a real sense of privacy. The Owner's Cabin is
superlative-beautifully appointed and offering an even higher level of
pampering.
Dining
Open-seating meals are served in the opulent dining room. Breakfast, lunch,
and the first evening meal were served buffet-style. Breakfast included a
selection of cooked entrees (including an omelet bar), pastries, cereal,
yogurt, fruit, and the like. Lunches varied, with both hot and cold
offerings and lots of fresh fruits and vegetables. Five-course dinners were
served a la carte, with a choice of appetizers and several entrees. All
meals were well-prepared, well-presented, and well received by passengers.
Dress for breakfast and lunch is casual; shorts and t-shirts are not allowed
at dinner (women are encouraged to wear casual dresses or dress-slacks; men
are asked to wear slacks and polo or dress shirts.)
Passengers
Passengers on our cruise ranged in age from 16 to 86, and all seemed happy
with what the cruise had to offer them. Children younger than 16 might be
bored unless they have active parents to join them in water sports; there
were no activities specifically geared to children. There were at least five
single travelers, and each of them (from young adults to retirees) told us
they enjoyed the cruise immensely. The ship boasts a very comfortable
library, where those who didn't want to loll in the sun can read or play
board games. We didn't ask for the ship's policy on handicapped travelers,
but one must be able to climb 6-12 steps at a time since there are no
elevators, and dining is on a lower deck. On the whole, passengers were
active individuals who enjoy the outdoors; many are sailors themselves.
Activities and Entertainment
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Because of the small number of passengers (170 maximum), there is time and
opportunity to get to know many of your fellow travelers. The captain and
mates were readily available for chats about sailing, navigation, and other
ship-talk. Water activities (swimming, snorkeling and the like) were
available whenever the ship was anchored. Diving opportunities were
available for both novice and experienced divers. An onboard dive-master
provides excursions on most days, and while we didn't dive, those passengers
who did found the experience to be quite good.
Shore excursions are available at most ports. The three we took were
excellent, offering knowledgeable and friendly drivers and a chance to get to
know the island and its culture. Adventurous cruisers may find that they can
do just as well on their own, but we thought the excursions were well-chosen
and reasonably priced.
A bar on the ship's tropical deck is the center of activity during the
afternoon and evening. Musician Ivan performs "greatest hits" during a 5
p.m. snack break, and classical music in the piano bar before dinner.
Sunsets on a sailing ship are always spectacular; ours were even better
thanks to the haunting bagpipe melodies the Captain played each evening as
the sun sank below the horizon.
There is special entertainment each evening after dinner: a steel band, a
shipboard Olympics, a pirate's night, crab races, and a talent show. The
large-scale entertainment (musical reviews, ballroom dancing, etc.) found on
traditional (i.e. larger) cruise ships is not part of the Star Clipper
experience. But we found "the sea, the sun, the sky, the sails" to be much
more satisfying entertainment.
More Information
Royal Clipper and Star Flyer are spending the summer of 2002 sailing the
Mediterranean. The flagship Royal Clipper offers a seven-day Balearic
Islands itinerary from Cannes to Menorca, Majorca, Palamos, Barcelona, and
St. Tropez. Air discounts may still be available for summer cruises.
Star Flyer offers two summer itineraries: a cruise along the French and
Italian Rivieras to Corsica, Monaco, Portofino, and Livorno; or a week
cruising the coast of southern Italy, visiting Paestum, Sicily, Lipari, and
Sorrento.
Beginning in November, Star Clipper will reposition for a new Mayan Caribbean
itinerary. These seven-night Western Caribbean cruises include ports like
Cozumel, Belize, Honduras, and the Yucatan peninsula. For more information,
request a brochure at 1-800-442-0556 or log onto the Star Clippers website
www.starclippers.com.
