Carnival Ecstasy
by Andy Taylor
Cruise to Nowhere
May 3, 1999
Preparation
This was going to be our first cruise but because I just couldn't wait 9
whole months we took a 3 day cruise to nowhere out of
Alexandria, Virginia on the NCL Leeward last August. That cruise did
little to help the wait and in fact probably made it worse
since we had such a terrific time.
The whole idea of a cruise came about when my other half's mother got
some free airfare and was looking for somewhere to
go. She suggested a cruise and I was all for it, immediately researching
what was available. We suggested the date since we
were planning on going to a friend's wedding in Miami and thought we
would combine that with the cruise. Typical of first time
cruisers, Chuck's mother, Juanita, thought she didn't want a full week
of cruising so that narrowed down the choices. I was
deciding between the Ecstasy and the Sovereign of the Seas. I had ruled
out the Leeward since we had already booked her. I
thought that I would probably like RCI better but I liked the itinerary
of the Ecstasy much better and combined with the fact
that Juanita LOVES Vegas we went with the Ecstasy. Booking 9 months in
advance gives you good choices for cabins and
good prices too. Chuck's sister and brother-in-law, Terri and William
and their good friends Becky and Paul, were also going
so we had a nice group of eight, enough for our own table. We splurged
and went for demi-suites with balcony. We had cabins
V-9 and V-11 on the Veranda deck. The rest were in E-164, E-166.
Everything booked, we all settled down for a very long
9-month wait.
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About a week before the cruise we started going to a tanning salon so we
wouldn't be "fish belly white" as we started the
cruise. I think it is a good idea to get a head start on your tan. We
also thought we could get a little sun in South Beach before
the cruise.
Miami
Our flight down from Washington DC on American Airlines was uneventful
and we arrived in Miami on time. After picking up
our rental car we drove out to the beach to find our hotel. I had not
put much thought or planning into the hotel (as I was soon
to regret) and we could tell upon walking into the lobby that it wasn't
going to be pretty. We checked into our ocean view
room (great view) and were extremely disappointed. A word of warning -
if you are looking to stay in South Beach DO NOT
stay at the Penguin Hotel. It was without a doubt the crummiest room we
have ever had. Badly painted white walls, cheap
carpet, hand painted old furniture (chipped to boot) and not even a
chair. I was worried about the reactions of the rest of our
group who were arriving the next day. If the rooms weren't bad enough
they had the most incompetent desk clerks we have
ever seen. Luckily we had so much fun in South Beach that it didn't ruin
anything for us. We really enjoyed being there a few
days early and had a great meal at Joe's Stone Crab and drinks at Smith
& Wolenski at their waterfront outside bar. The latter
is perfect for watching the ships leave Miami and we got to see a lot of
them.
The day before the cruise we took a harbor cruise out of Bayside, a
shopping and dining and entertainment area near the port.
This is a great way to see Miami and some of the ships docked along
Government Cut. We were all struck at how much more
beautiful the Royal Caribbean ships were next to the Carnival ships (and
for the record I don't work for RCI or have I ever
sailed on one of their ships). Chuck commented that the Carnival Fantasy
class ships looked like big rectangular hunks of
floating cement painted white. I think they sort of look that way too
and was hoping that once on board we would lose that
feeling.
Embarkation
We thought dropping off the car at the port would be a breeze but for
some reason there was no sign to indicate where Avis
was, the only car rental at the port. After getting some directions we
easily found it and turned the car in. There was an Avis
shuttle that took us to the Ecstasy. We dropped off our bags and heading
into the terminal. Since it was 12:20 or so we
expected a huge crowd. Happily the line wasn't long at all and we were
checked in and on the ship within 10 minutes.
The Cruise
It is exciting to enter into the grand atrium. I had heard from reading
other reviews that it appears smaller than you expect but
since I was prepared for it to look small, I thought it was larger than
I expected. We took the glass elevator to the Veranda
level and were greeted by Chuck's mother and her husband as the doors
opened. They excitedly led us to our cabin, V-11
(they were next door in V-9), and we were thrilled upon entering it. It
was a beautiful, large cabin with everything we could
possibly need. It had a queen-sized bed, sofa and coffee table, vanity
with stool, a dry bar with refrigerator, TV with VCR, two
closets, one with shelves and 5 drawers. The bathroom was bigger than we
expected with a good sized shower and we also
were surprised to see bathrobes and toiletries since we had heard that
Carnival didn't provide them. I had also ordered bon
voyage gifts (from our cats) of wine and flowers and they were all there
too. We opened the drapes to see our gorgeous view
of Miami and the bay. The balcony was small but enough for us with two
chairs and a table. People could see onto the balcony
from the lower deck but this didn't bother us. I do have to say that
having the balcony has not spoiled us into requiring one
from now on though. Although nice, I think we can live without it in the
future unless the price is right.
The first order of business was to change our dining assignment. We were
not pleased that we had been assigned early seating
when we had requested late seating 9 months before the cruise, a chronic
problem on Carnival since you don't know your fate
until you embark. We went to the table in the Society bar where changes
were supposed to be made. He said there was
nothing that could be done for the first night but they would try to get
us changed for the rest of the cruise. Chuck went ballistic
but the guy just sat there smirking. While not happy about this
arrangement, we had no choice but to accept it.
We went on from there to explore the ship. I knew that the decor of this
ship would not be my taste (and it wasn't) but
basically it is well done and thought out. I think the design is done to
look best at night and that is certainly the case. When
walking around the common areas, bars and show lounges in the day time
it is like you are seeing it during off hours and need
to come back at night to see how it is really supposed to look.
Regardless, the ship is huge and there are plenty of public
spaces for the 2,300 passengers on our cruise. The passengers were
basically an attractive group and I was pleased that there
seemed to be very little rowdy behavior. There were almost no kids
except a couple of groups of high school seniors (really not
kids) who were well behaved for the most part. One thing that surprised
me a little was how many young men seemed to think
it was OK to not wear a shirt when inside the ship. When looking at the
embarkation photos there were many men boarding
the ship topless too! I just find it hard to believe that these people
don't know better. Some men were sans shirts even in the
food areas - gross.
We looked around the pools and upper deck and then went in to the
Panorama Grill for the buffet lunch. I immediately did not
like this room. Walls and molded plastic banquettes in a turquoise
color, the room looked the most dated of any on the ship. It
also had a rather unfortunate musty/sour sponge odor that was present
throughout the cruise. We got a decent hamburger and
were off to explore some more and get some sun before we sailed.
Since we had early seating for dinner this first night we missed some of
the sail away events and view. We had a surprisingly
good dinner, well presented and tasty. I had lamb chops and they were
cooked perfectly. After dinner we went to the main
show lounge (Blue Sapphire) and enjoyed two comedians. After that, a
little gambling (no luck there) and off to bed.
The next morning we awoke to watch our approach into Key West. Just as
in Miami (and also in Cozumel) our starboard side
cabin was facing out into the ocean. We were very pleased with this
arrangement. Since we have spent a great deal of time in
Key West before, we took the Conch Train and the rest of our group
rented bikes. We sailed at 2 pm and we enjoyed the rest
of the afternoon on the rear pool deck. From our previous cruise I
remembered that our favorite place to sit by the pool was on
the upper level of the midship pool deck. There were always lovely
breezes to keep you cool there. On the Ecstasy (and all
Fantasy class ships) the lifeboats line this upper level blocking both
air and any view. We sat in the rear pool deck because of
this but it is a huge space packed with people and no shade anywhere.
Although the ship seemed to have adequate deck space
I missed a cascading aft and quiet areas with shade. The few deck areas
with shade didn't have chairs so you were forced to
sit in the hot sun.
The Captain's cocktail party was this night and we were really surprised
that they had trays of free cocktails and appetizers for
all. They didn't stop you at just one drink either and we felt it was
very generous since we were expecting only champagne.
Dinner that night (formal night) was excellent (lobster and prime rib)
they had moved us to a wonderful table for eight by the
window at late seating so we were pleased. They were extremely generous
with the food too. I had prime rib and our waiter
came by and offered me a lobster tail too! If you didn't like something
they immediately brought you something else. It was
surprising how many people didn't eat in the formal dining room though.
I can't imagine that they preferred the less interesting
fare in the smelly Panorama grill, but who knows. Since it was a
Carnival cruise I wasn't expecting to see many men in tuxedos
and we didn't. Everyone looked really nice though. We saw the big
production show after dinner and it was fantastic. The
dancing and singing were very professional and we all enjoyed it
immensely.
We hit some very heavy seas in the morning on the way to Cozumel (10 to
12-foot swells) and the Ecstasy was really rocking
and rolling. It only bothered two in our party and I actually thought it
was fun. As we arrived in Cozumel I was excited to see
several other ships docked there. At the main dock downtown was the
Norwegian Sea and at the international dock there was
the Leeward (our previous ship), the Sensation and an older ship, the
Italia Prima of Andrea Doria fame. We docked right next
to the Sensation and it was incredible to see these two giants side by
side. Chuck had gone on the Tulum tour, Terri, William,
Becky and Paul had gone snorkeling and the rest of us just did some
shopping. The snorkeling and Mayan ruins were both big
hits. We had another good meal that night too. Some gambling, dancing,
shows and off to bed.
Our last day was at sea and I mostly rested - or at least tried to. Up
to this point I had not thought that there were excessive
announcements on the ship but they more than made up for that the last
day at sea. It was incessant and annoying with the
emphasis on getting you to buy, buy, buy. I was able to resist. This
last night was the usual with the tips being handed out. In the
brochure it mentions tips for only the room steward, the waiter, and the
busboy. In reality, you are expected to tip the
headwaiter and the maitre de also. No big deal but I think it should be
mentioned in advance. We saw the passenger talent
show that night (not too much talent there, but very fun) and gambled a
little more. Juanita, who is most familiar with gambling,
thought the slots were extremely tight. Becky did win a $100 at
blackjack though and she was thrilled. We got to bed fairly
early and when I awoke it was to the beautiful lights of South Beach in
Miami twinkling in the distance. I got up and watched
from over the bridge as the huge ship made her way up Government Cut.
The debarkation was painless since we got off first
and we were at the airport by 9:45 am! We were able to get on an earlier
American flight than we were booked on and we
were home in Washington, DC by 1:15.
Conclusion
All in all the cruise was great for our group. Everyone had a terrific
time and we will probably do one again next year as a
group. That said, I think there is room for improvement in a few areas
for Carnival or at least the Ecstasy. First of all, as
mentioned before, the Panorama Grill had an unpleasant smell. I also
thought the formal dining room (Wind Star) smelled
musty. I have to admit though that I am pretty sensitive to bad smells
(for example the diesels exhaust on all ships bothers me)
but it did seem that the dining areas should smell fresher. Another
problem was with the crew. Our waiter and several other
workers on the ship just didn't seem happy. Our waiter, perhaps in an
attempt to make us feel sorry for him and tip him more,
told us of the hard life and unpleasant conditions that they lived with
on the ship. I also had more than one bartender complain
that few tipped beyond the 15% included in the liquor (they said this to
me since I do tip over that amount) and a lot of the
crew just didn't look happy. I am not sure if this is a Carnival thing
or not but it made me feel uncomfortable and didn't do
much to enhance the "Fun Ship" mood or concept. Everything was done
efficiently and well but without a happy face. I know
that their conditions must be bad but they are not slaves and could work
elsewhere. Our waiter indicated that the three and four
day cruises are harder to work and I'm sure he is right, although
Carnival is planning more of them in the future. Carnival does
seem to provide a good basic product but I'm pretty sure I won't be
sailing with them again anytime in the near future. I am
anxious to try Princess and Celebrity to see if there really is any
difference. I have to say that I did like our cruise with NCL
better and preferred the understated decor. In conclusion, I have to say
that I'm from the school of thought that there is no such
thing as a bad cruise and this certainly was no exception, we had a
great time.