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Carnival Cruise Lines

Carnival Spirit
by Jim
Alaska
August 1, 2001

Travelers: Family of 5, Mom and Dad in 40's, Boys 14 and 10, Girl 6. Third cruise.

The cruise was part of a 19 day trip, with the 1st 5 days in Seattle, 2 days in Vancouver, 7 days on the Spirit and the final days in Girdwood, Alaska and returning to Florida.

Many thanks go out to all the members of these boards, as the information learned greatly enhanced the cruise experience reviewed below.

The Ship
The Spirit is a magnificent vessel displaying elegant charm and luxury. Comments have been made about the decor being too busy and brash, but stimulating and rich are better decriptions. The ambience created a feeling of comfort and style that you might get from sitting in a new car about two steps higher than you could afford. The ship is very new and is in the finest condition as you would expect from a very modern liner. It seemed that the designers and builders had thought of everything when the Spirit was put together. Everything worked as you would expect, no problems of any kind with plumbing, electric, or the heating/AC systems. Getting around was easy as the deck layout was well thought out.

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There is plenty of deck space for wildlife viewing which will be great for getting a tan when the ship sails the Caribbean in the fall and winter. The public areas flowed together from the atrium on the lower level to the lounges, casino, main restuarant, shops and the showroom. The photo gallery is conveniently located just above the lobby bar in the atrium. The atrium is just stunning with triple glass elevators rising from the lobby bar to the red glass fantail high above. Don't miss the clear spiral staincase up to Noveau Supper Club, Carnival's upscale, $20 per person, alternative restuarant. The climb up the stairs is free. Three pools, one domed, four spas, the gym, salon and Nautica spa areas, along with the La Playa Grille and pizzeria are all easily accessed on the Lido deck. Bars are located fore, aft, starboard and port, so you are never far from liquid refresment. Ice cream and frozen yogurt machines, along with coffee, tea, lemonade and juices are also available in several places on the Lido deck 24 hours a day.

Cabins: 7259 Verandah Deck with balcony and 7261 Inside Cabin directly across the hall.

Spacious, well designed, comfortable, cabins are the norm on Carnival and the Spirit is no exception. Plenty of closet and drawer space, a couch and balcony were the perfect accomodations for cruising any itinerary. Included were essential toiletries, plenty of towels, built in hair dryer, 110 volt outlets both in the bathroom near the vanity mirror. The twin/king bed was made into a king after being pushed together on the first night of the cruise. The balcony was ideal for wildlife watching or just viewing the magnificent scenery of Alaska. It was easy to prop the blacony door open with the balcony furniture, so the bungee cords brought along weren't needed in this cabin, but some may find them useful.

The Crew
The Captian and the Hotel Director were seldom heard from or seen. Their intrduction on stage, shown on the ship's TV, along with their names in the Carnival Capers was for the most part all the exposure the passengers had to them. Perhaps they were busy attending to their responsibilities as the operation of the ship and the hotel with ran as smoothly as a Swiss watch.

Cruise Director Shawn Bussey is enthusiastic enough but did not seem to connect enough with the passengers. She could use a little more exposure, maybe at the Captain's cocktail party she could grab a microphone and liven things up as most of the guests on board were packing the lower atrium and nearby promenade relaxing with the complimentary beverages provided.

The Camp Carnival Staff deserves commendation for the friendly and joyful manner in which they do their jobs. Always, always smiling. The kids who particicpated with them were well cared for, entertained superbly and anxious to return for another session whenever possible.

The Maitre d' Ken byrne is by far the best at his position. Many with his responsibilities just do an adequate job, not interacting much with guests and then waiting at the dining room exit for a tip on the last evening. Not this gentleman; every evening he would sing a few songs (he was excellent), make announcements, and lead the wait staff in the post dinner entertainment. This was in addition to his duties supervising a staff of over 200, and making sure all the dining guests were satisfied at each meal. Service under his direction was nearly flawless.

Honorable mention goes to Chef Xavier Praxmarer who was spotted at the midnight buffet working diligently to rearrange a display after an ice sculpture fell. He is a hands on person, leading by example to ensure that high quality, well displayed food was always available.

Carnival's naturalist, Michelle, provided information about Alaskan wildlife and nature throught the cruise, both in scheduled lectures and impromptu information as wildlife and other natural wonders were observed. She spent lots of time on the bridge, scanning the waterways and mountainsides, then alerting the several hundred guests on the "wildlife watch" to the eagles, whales, otters and porpoises she observed. She also described the waterways, mountains, fjords and glaciers extensively throughout the voyage. She also presented an interesting slide show about whales. Her presence enhanced the cruise greatly, espectially for those interested in wildlife.

Spoiling the nearly perfect rating for the 900 plus crew members was one Peter Kinloch Anderson, Carnival's Shore Tours Manager, who went out of his way to criticize and demean the shore excursion choice of five guests, because they had not booked their glacier helicopter trip through his department. He was rude, arrogant and condescending and stated outright that the only reason the helicoptor tour with Coastal was chosen was because it was cheaper. Did this ignorant bloke (he is from Scotland, thus the bloke reference) really think the party of five with a previously committed tour, prepaid and costing several hundred dollars would cancel and go on his "superior" excursion, forfeiting the entire sum paid and rebook with him? Apparently he thought so. Carnival would be well advised to remove this gentlemen to a position with, shall we say, less exposure to the public. And to further his negative impression, Mr. Anderson was smoking while directing guests as they disembarked at the pier in Juneau. Had it not been for this one incident, this entire review would be so positive and upbeat that one would suspect the reviewer to be an employee of the cruise line.

The staff of this ship, overall, was unbelievably courteous, competent, friendly and efficient, never intrusive, and not bothered by unusual or even untimely requests. This is a remarkable accomplishment for a cruise ship on the waters just over 3 months. Surely there were guests with problems but they were not readily observed. Apparently most problems were handled quickly and quietly to the satisfaction of most guests.

The Food
Food on the Spirit seems to be continuing the tradtion of improvement that Carnival has established over the past few years. While other cruise lines are cutting corners by eliminating the midnight buffet and lowering quality, Carnival continues to improve the quality and availability of its menu offerings. The late night buffet was served every night of the voyage with a Grand Gala Buffet on the sixth night, featuring many elegantly presented displays of ice carving, carved fruits and vegetables along with a wide variety of food selections.

The Empire Restuarant, the ship's main dining room featured a vast array of items that should please most appetites. The food quality was very good to excellent and some selections were fabulous. Eat what you like, the preparations were unique and flavorful. A note to the executive chef at corporate headquarters; the company recipe for Caesar dressing is a little on the fishy side, please reconsider the amount of anchovies. Also the area in which there is the most room for improvement is deserts, in the dining room as well as the La Playa Grille. Seafood, Vegetarian, Meat, Pasta and Nautica Spa selections were available each evening, along with a couple other items. Appetizers were especially tasty with salmon and crab legs being the highlight of the offerings.

The La Playa Grill, located on the Lido deck serves as the ships buffeteria and alternative to the ship's main dining room. The food here is very, very good. There are many selections each day. Carnival features a different Taste of Nations each day, including, French, Italian, Japanese, Caribbean, Indian, Mexican, and American. The New York Deli features hot and cold sandwiches from 11AM to 11PM daily and the Seaview Bistro serves seafood selections during dinner hours the first six nights.

The Service
Late seating, Table 393
Here is where the stars shined!! Dining room service was impeccable, prompt, friendly and honest. Antonio, Team Head Waiter, and his assistant Rey, Team Waiter, both from the Philipines provided prompt and professional service each evening of the cruise. Menus were delivered instantly upon seating and special requests were accepted graciously and served with eagerness to please. Needs were anticipated and it was rarely necessary to request anything.

Complementing the food waiters was Juan, the bar waiter from Puerto Rico. Juan anticipated the soft drink needs of the children at dinner and served them consistently throughout the cruise. Several times each evening, Juan would deliver a round of Diet Cokes, even though there was no gratuity for any of the 50 or so soft drinks he served during the week. This guy had the warmest smile this side of heaven and was well rewarded for the superior service he provided along with his inspiring smile. Bartenders and Bar Waiters in other areas of the ship provided quick and friendly service at all times, even to the children using their soda cards. They had no problems getting first class service.

Carnival also provided two complimentary cocktail parties, one for all guests at the Captain's Reception and another at the Repeaters Party for anyone who had sailed with Carnival in the past. These gestures were very much appreciated, and quite unexpected. Service was quick and availability of drinks very sufficient during these events.

Rounding out the excellent service was Cabin Steward Dennis Untal. Ice bin always filled, room made up promptly, about 12 different towel figures between 2 cabins during the week, clothes folded and room straightened regularly were the highlights of his excellent service.

It would be difficult to find a better service team on any ship.

The Entertainment
Shows on the Spirit were well produced and reasonable entertaining, as were the comedians and magician. The Spirit Orchestra is quite good as were the other singers and dancers on board. Greater attendance and audience participation would have enhanced the performances. A little too much Sinatra perhaps; maybe the music selection will change when the ship heads south and the passenger profile gets younger and more active. Late night comedians were funny but some may be offended by the R rated content.


The Passengers The 2300 plus Guests sailing on the Spirit were for the most part in the 50+ range as are most Alaska cruisers. However the walker and oxygen tank crowd was totally absent on Carnival. A small percentage of the guests were children and teens, but for the most part this was an older subdued group. Late night activities were quiet and sparsely attended. No wild, outrageous partying was seen on this itinerary. This is quite understandable though as the beauty and grandeur of Alaska are not to be traded for a late night party. Be advised that this will change though when the Spirit reaches the Caribbean and the partying cruisers embark. The Spirit will "kick it up another notch", as Emeril would say, and compared to an Alaska cruise, this ship is gonna rock!!

The Voyage
Embarkation was routine but a little behind schedule as was departure time from the pier. Overall the voyage was very smooth with great weather. There was a little rocking and rolling a couple of times and it could be noticed more in the back of the ship. The captain did have the stabilizers extended whenever needed to reduce the motion. Sailing under the Lion's Gate bridge was dramatic as the Spirit's fantail nearly reached the height of the bottom of the bridge. The afternoon and evening were routine for a cruise, lunching on the lido deck, unpacking, getting familiar with the ship, getting to dinner on time, and a comedy show to close out the day. But that routine would soon change.

Mother nature was out in all her glory for the rest of the week. Words cannot begin to describe the majesty and grandeur that lay ahead. Pristine snow capped mountain peaks, waterfalls, valleys and vistas, and wildlife captivated the hundreds of passengers on the "scenic watch". Eagles, whales, including one which surfaced about 50 feet from the ship, porpoises, otters with their young along with several species of waterfoul were spotted throughout the voyage. The waterways were dotted with local boat traffic, fishing vessels, lighthouses, islands, and an occasional jumping fish.

The northbound itinerary saves the best for last though as cruising through Prince William Sound and College Fjord is on Day 6. Viewing glacial valleys of blue ice between towering mountains of granite, while sailing through iceberg laden waterways is a most amazing, thrilling and awe inspiring experience.

Stunning, Awesome, Majestic, Pristine, Beauty and Grandeur are descriptions that barely begin to convey the experience of this overwhelming display of the Creator's handiwork!!

John Muir described glaicers in 1879 this way: "The whole front of the glacier is gashed and sculptured into a maze of shallow caves and crevasses, and a bewildering variety of novel architectural forms, clusters of glittering lance-tipped spires, gables, and obelisks, hold out standing bastions and plain mural cliffs, adorned along the top with fretted cornice and battlement, while every gorge and crevasse, groove and hollow, was filled with light, shimmering and throbbing in pale-blue tones of ineffable tenderness and beauty".

If you haven't done so yet, and you ever get the chance, go and see and hear and feel and touch and taste the glaciers: it is a don't miss experience of a lifetime. Well you cant touch or taste them from the ship but eating some glacial ice was one of the first things 10 year old Daniel did after landing on the Herbert Glacier near Juneau.

The Ports
Vancouver is a marvelous city with many first class hotels, eateries, shopping opportunities and of course a beautiful port, Canada Place. A somewhat pricey dinner in the revolving restuarant on top of the Harbour Centre provided panoramic views of the city. Tours of Stanley Park and the Vancouver Aquarium were enjoyable and informative. The people employed in the hospitality industry in Vancouver set a standard of excellence in care, courtesy and service without rival. The Delta Vancouver Suites, a top notch hotel, located about four blocks from the pier, was an excellent value. There is a good sized liquor and wine shop located in the Harbour Centre, (3 blocks from the pier and very walkable) that made it convenient to buy a few bottles of wine just prior to embarkation. Prices are reasonable, especially with the current exchange rate for US dollars. Taxis were available and waiting at all major locations in the downtown and port areas.

Ketchikan is a quaint little village with lots of charm featurning Ketchikan Creek, a salmon hatchery, sailboat harbor, totem poles, the pier and in late July and early August, a plentiful population of salmon. A walk up Ketchikan Creek to the hatchery revealed thousands of salmon headed upstream to spawn, while locals and tourists were catching the fish from a bridge overlooking the mouth of the creek. Flightseeing excursions of all types are available here with take offs and landings throughout the day. Charter boats abound and poles are available to rent for those interested in fishing from shore or the docks around the harbor.

Juneau, capital of Alaska, is home of the famous Mendenhall Glacier and the surrounding Juneau icefield, excellent whale watching, the Mt Roberts Tramway, and the historic district in the downtown area. Tickets for the tram are good all day for as many trips of you care to make. Planning your own excursions seems to be a great way to go as it will save you money, give you flexibility, get you away from the "herd" that must by necessity exist for large ship tours. And you will have a much better chance of doing your first choice activity. In Juneau, Orca Enterprises takes you whale watching on a jet boat with 25 others. The ship tours book with 150 on board a larger slower vessel. You'll have more time on the water, be closer to whales and Orca will drop you at your next excursion if at all possible in their schedule. Try that on a bus with 60 passengers returning to the pier. Coastal Helicopter operates glacier landings independent of the ship's tours. Here is a summary of the experiences with these two companies.

Our family of five flew on the Coastal 1 hour glacier landing tour Saturday August 4, at 1PM and had a great time!!!!!!!! They were picked us up at the pier about 45 minutes prior to the flight and transportered our party and another couple to the airport about 10 miles away. The Herbert glacier landing and flight were memorable. Our pilot (JAG, his initials) was informative, friendly and took several pictures of us on the glacier. We did have to fill out the weight form on the van and they did verify with a scale in the office before the flight. This is a very important safety measure though and should be expected from a reliable company. Our preflight safety talk on the van was audible and clear.

The boots provided were less than ideal, and we would have been just as well off to wear the walking shoes we had on prior to the flight. The boots would have kept us warm however, if the weather had been cool. They also have hooded coats available if the clothing you arrive with is not warm enough for current weather conditions. After taking off the pilot took us on an ariel tour of the Mendenhall Valley and glacier, the harbor and the surrounding area. The Juneau ice field was clouded in and not visible. We flew to an altitude of about 2500 feet for the landing on Herbert Glacier, flying over breathtaking ridges, mountain peaks and jagged glacial ice formations. We also saw a mountain goat on the hillside above the glacier and had a nice tour of the area again on the way back to the airport. It is expensive; (Coastal is the lowest) $160 each for a 1 hour trip. Worth it though, as there are sights, sounds, and sensations that you experience on the trip that no words, pictures or other descriptions could possibly adequately depict. Go for it!!

Orca Enterprises took us whale watching about and hour after the glacier landing. We were so pumped from the helicopter flight that it really didn't seem to make much difference whether or not we saw any whales. But Captain Larry had about 20 other avid whale watchers to please and he was not about to dissapoint. What we witnessed over the next 3 hours or so was the most amazing sight imaginable.

A pod of 6 or 7 humpback whales were feeding as a group in a process known as bubble net feeding. The whales would dive, form a circle and release a circle of bubbles around a school of fish. The fish, with a natural fear of the bubbles head toward the surface and center of the bubble net. After signaling or telling each other (the whale speak was audible to us from the hydrophone Captain Larry had placed in the water) that it was time to surface and capture their meal, the whales would simultaneously breach the surface, filling thier mouths with the catch. They would lounge around on the surface a bit and then dive again, raising their massive tails skyward on the way down to create another bubble net for the next feast. The whales continued this cooperative feeding over and over for the next couple of hours. Watching these whales feed in this manner was incredibly thrilling. The mate informed us that this behavior is somewhat rare and not often seen on whalewatching expedtions. This was confirmed by Michelle, Carnival's naturalist. It was a very, very special treat!! We were also able to observe seals, eagles, and other wildlife on the return trip from Auke Bay to the harbor. We were on sensory overload after the day in Juneau, shaking our heads in awe, disbelief and gratitude for the privileges granted us on this most memorable day.

Skagway, a most relaxing port with a train ride up and down the mountain to the summit on the Candian border. The scenery was beautiful, picturesque and tranquil along the 20 mile White Pass Railway line. Skagway has a colorful gold rush history and heritage, kept alive by the train, the Red Onion Saloon, Gold Rush cemetery and the town's other historic structures. As in all the ports, the ususal souveniers are available, from 50 cent train whistles to bronze and gold eagles at $25,000.00 per copy. Also available are many unusual items, including native art, clothing, furs, ulu knives and totem poles. Lots of flightseeing and local tours are offered as well.

Sitka is a quaint village of Russian heritage and reminds you of a European setting. From the unique domed cathedral to the Russian bishop's former home, the settlement is a delightful reminder of a time gone by. Tours of the area are offered at the pier by locals but town is just 1 block away. It is about a mile and a half to the raptor center, a favorite attraction for many. Just before the raptor center is a National Forest Park with well marked trails featuring about a dozen totem poles. Signs at the entrance warn of recent confirmed bear sightings. A creek runs through the park and should be loaded with salmon right now as they were just starting to run on August 6. The area is home to many eagles and other birds of prey. Shopping was similar to the other ports. The wildlife adventure tour received rave reviews from those who went.

Seward/Anchorage
Few passengers saw much of Seward as you disembark the ship directly on to a bus at the pier and are whisked away to the Anchorage airport. The harbor is filled with boats that were lined up to get out fishing by 6 AM. The stream of boats continued out of the harbor for most of the early morning. The ride to Anchorage is quite scenic with snow capped mountains, waterways and a few glaciers visible along the route. Cruisers meet up with their luggage at the airport or other Anchorage locations such as local hotels. Goodbye Carnival Cruise Lines, It was Fabulous!!!

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