Rotterdam
by Jeff Coudriet
Transatlantic
April 28, 1999
We just got back from our 9 day voyage from NYC to Lisbon on Holland
America's Rotterdam. We had a great time and liked the ship very much,
but there are some minor criticisms too.
For you lazy readers out there, here's my quickie guide to this cruise:
Cabin: A
Food: B-
Staff: A-
Activities: B+
Ports: B+
For the truly information deprived, here are all the details....
We booked our land and air arrangements on our own, so we took the
Amtrak Metroliner from Washington's Union Station to Penn Station in New
York. Since we had 4 good sized bags we got a porter within steps of
getting off the train and we got our bags up from the subterranean
depths to the cab stand-- worth the $10 tip. We got a cab quick and
went to the Passenger Ship Terminal on 55th and 12th Avenue in no time.
Arriving there we didn't see anyone in a Holland America shirt or jacket
so I was wary of leaving our bags there (it is NY after all!) so we
rolled our bags into the terminal to face a very long line--they were
not letting anyone on board yet. So it took us a good hour to get on
board and there was no real organization to the lines at the 7 or 8
check in counters once inside. We were not amused, but hey, we were
going on a cruise and the memory of that would soon fade. We got to the
gangplank (finally) and HAL staff carried our bags to our room right
then and there, which was nice, so we could unpack right away. It was a
nice bit of white gloved service.
The Cabin: We had a Category A mini-suite which was quite sizeable,
with a veranda. We had the 2 beds put together to make almost a king
sized bed and the sitting area near the veranda had a very large leather
couch which was very comfortable! It was definitely larger than the
comparable room on the Celebrity Galaxy which we sailed in December.
The bathroom was nice and had ample storage and a small whirlpool tub,
which I always enjoy a good soak at night before bed--you can make your
bubbles get real big by turning on the water jets! The veranda was
slightly bigger than the Galaxy's as well with a full lounge chair, a
regular chair, and small table, enough to put some drinks on and your
book. There were 5 closets and 13 drawers, very ample storage indeed.
This room also has a TV and VCR which we utilized a couple of times to
rent movies from the Library (free of course) since we had 5 "at sea"
days on this cruise. There was a safe in one of the closets. The decor
of the room was a somewhat subdued Scandinavian modern look which I
liked, although the finishes on the furniture seemed a little less real
wood-like than on the Galaxy, but it was a nice big attractive room
nonetheless. The coffee table in front of the couch could be raised or
lowered according to your likes, but looked rather formica-like. There
were also a chair and a stool under the vanity, really more seating than
you would ever need for 2 people. The wall and the door to the veranda
were floor to ceiling glass, providing very nice sea views at all times,
a big plus--we kept our curtains open at all times! All and all a
rather attractive room which we enjoyed spending time in. The veranda
was nice and I took a few naps out there while we were at sea. The
cabin also had 2 nice robes for our use on the ship and one of those
hairdryers in the bathroom with the vacuum-hose-like tube.
The Public Spaces: We loved the Crow's Nest at the top of the ship and
the Ocean Bar. Both rooms were used for various functions throughout
the day (and night) and were among the nicest rooms on the ship. In
both rooms HAL would serve appetizers before each dinner seating, a very
nice touch. Since there were so many days at sea one needed to fill
one's time with activities at times. To that end, we attended the team
trivia at 11:00 am in the Ocean Bar nearly every morning with Jason, who
was a very funny man. Everyone had a good time. My partner, the Java
Junkie, loved the Java Cafe one level down and got capuccino and
espresso every day there and brought it up to the Ocean Bar for our
trivia fix. He thought the coffee in the Lido restaurant and in the La
Fontaine dining room left something to be desired so the Java Cafe was a
must stop for coffee lovers on board. In the Crow's Nest, in addition
to having great views out to the ocean, had wonderful leather chairs and
ottomans to read in by day or relax in by night. They also had these
Biedermeier-esque leather chairs that we very much wanted to take home.
The Lido pool area became a favorite place to sit and read while people
watching. I liked the big seal sculptures at the foot of the pool but
didn't like the use of the color yellow (but that's my own personal
taste--I don't like yellow) and the tiles at the bottom of the little
kiddie wading pool were yellow too, which under water makes the water
look dirty-- not a good choice. The Lido pool has a retractable roof
which was opened on nice days--about half of the days were good weather
and half not. There is also a nice open air pool area at the back of
the ship as well which I enjoyed on sunny days and got a nice tan, which
I wasn't expecting on a transatlantic crossing, but then again, I tan
easily!
The LaFontaine dining room was very nice and we had a table for
6 on the upper level in the back of the ship right next to the windows
looking out the back of the ship. It was a very nice view but it was
hot every night back there in ways that it wasn't hot in other areas of
the dining room, even on cloudy days without the sun streaming in.
Guess they needed more air conditioning back there! We did enjoy
looking at the wake of the ship every night thought. The one public
room that I thought did not work was the main theater, the Queen's
Lounge. It needs a design overhaul. Lots of yellows and golds that
didn't mix well together (but remember my bias against yellow.) It just
wasn't harmonious. The seating was haphazardly designed in some ways
and not attractive. But that was the only room I really didn't take
to. The other decor problem I had was with the antiqued mirrored tiles
they used to line the staircase wall in the atrium--in a word, yuck. A
little too glitzy for my taste on a ship that was generally low key and
classy looking.
The flow of the public spaces I thought was pretty good
once I figured out where everything was. The signage was generally in
the 3 elevator lobbies on each deck. We are "stair" people generally on
cruises since we need to work off all those extra calories and if you're
taking the stairs you don't see a lot of the signage. This sailing was
not full, they said around 1000 people on a ship that fits 1300+. We
liked the somewhat smaller size from the Galaxy, which that combined
with so many days at sea meant we would bump into people we had met on a
regular basis, which was nice. Speaking of meeting people--we had
arranged a lunch the first day at sea with 4 other couples we met in
advance on AOL. It was wonderful meeting them and we felt like we had
friends onboard from the first day which was very nice. We had a great
time bumping into them onboard all week (hi gang!)
The Staff: We found the service in the dining room and our cabin
steward to be great. Warm and friendly without being too friendly if
you know what I mean. They were genuinely nice people and their tips
were most certainly earned. Our wants at the dining room were
anticipated, for example I like iced tea with dinner and decaf with
dessert. It took Robertus and Jaya one day to figure that out. Our
cabin steward, Sam, kept our room very clean and well stocked with
towels and soaps and stuff like that. The one thing that mystified me
about Sam for several days was what his voice reminded me of--ET the
Extra Terrestrial! You'd have to hear him to believe it. In any case,
speaking of soap, I liked the bathroom products HAL has, the soaps and
skin lotions--pretty nice stuff. On our disembarkation day we had one
irritating thing happen, Sam came into our room while I was half naked
very much rushing us to get out. That left a somewhat sour note so I
reduced his tip! We literally needed 10 minutes more (it was quarter to
8 am for goodness sakes) and we would have been gone soon enough so I
felt a little bit like "don't let the door hit you on the way out".
Otherwise it was all very nice service. Robertus, our waiter,
thoughtfully remembered to give me a copy of our dinner menus for the
whole cruise, which being the information junkie that I am I loved. The
Cruise Director was Gary Walker who we basically enjoyed, but I think
most of these type people come off as pretty fake and cheesy, and he was
no exception. I am cynical 36-year old what can I say? But he was nice
and friendly when we saw him out and about on the ship. by the end of
the cruise we were on hello terms with most of the cruise and
entertainment staff, a friendly bunch. Jason, the triva king, and
Jenny, his occasional substitute, were both lively and entertaining.
The Food: It started off not very well. Maybe the kitchen staff was
just tired and bored since the Rotterdam was just finishing up her world
cruise for 1999. Not very interesting desserts and small, tired looking
cuts of meat. My dining mates liked the seafood entrees though and one
lady had a very large lobster tail one night that she liked. Some of
the cold soups were very very good but the salads were not imaginative
usually. Too much iceberg lettuce! Some nice salad dressings
though--including a chardonnay sesame seed and a few other interesting
ones. They couldn't seem to cook rice without making it too mushy. Oh
well, the food did get better as we went along, and started coming close
to the more interesting food we had on Galaxy. We are foodies to a
certain extent.
The Rotterdam also has a special Italian restaurant
onboard (the "Odyessy") which you need reservations for (but which is
otherwise free, of course) and we didn't get to eat there until the last
day onboard--which was a mistake. Run and make reservations your first
day on board to eat there--the food is absolutely terrific and puts the
dining room food to shame in terms of quality and presentation.
The food from room service and up in the Lido was acceptable. I generally
avoid buffets on a cruise ship--after going to school for 20 years and
then working for the government the last 15 years the last thing I want
to do on vacation is wait on line for food served cafeteria style! I
don't know why people find this attractive. Speed is one thing I
realize, especially when you are on a very port intensive cruise and are
in a rush, but for me the dining room and sitting down is always the way
to go. No one says you have to order every course and sit there for an
hour and a half for lunch. Just get an iced tea and the entree and you
can be on your way in no time. No waiting on line for me unless I have
to! We loved having the soft serve ice cream in the Lido late in the
afternoon in a very large waffle cone! Now that is worth the wait! We
also did enjoy getting capuccino and baked goods and an omelet or two in
the morning via room service to eat out on our veranda--always a nice
thing to do. Our friends up a deck in the really high rent district
missed having a butler to bring appetizers before dinner and such.
The Activities: I tend to think most of the production shows on these
things are pretty tacky and stupid and certainly this cruise didn't
change my mind at all. The women in the shows were the better singers
but the men were the better dancers. They were trying certainly. The
best show was the Salute to Broadway or whatever it was called. Good
reliable show tunes and production values. The other 2 shows were only
passable, but hey go anyhow (what else are you going to do for 5 days at
sea!) The ship's orchestra was very good and handled the music for some
special acts with quite a bit of professionalism, I was impressed.
There was a comedian on this sailing who did impressions, Joey Van,
whose act was 30 years old (at least) but very funny. There were quite
a number of musical cues for his act and the band was on the money and
well rehearsed. The most intriguing act were two older ladies who
called themselves the Marimba Mamas who played the marimbas, instruments
which are like bells you hit with little mallets. They were a hoot and
had a good schtick going. To think they could do all that playing just
exhausted me looking at it. They were lively and fun and had a sense of
humor about themselves, very refreshing.
There were all sorts of other
activities like bingo and horse races and the usual cruise ship stuff
which you could do or not do depending on your choice. They did make
announcements over the PA for such things several times a day which I
find annoying! We like Celebrity's policy of not having such
announcements better. We can read the daily program for ourselves,
thank you! Two other activities I enjoyed were a tour of the ship's
galleys and the 3 art tours they had of the ship's art. Denise, the art
tour guide on the ship staff, was very good and the art was fascinating
in many ways. The large reproductions of the Chinese warriors and
horses from Xian are nice but in an inappropriate location for their
size. They deserve to be shown off better than they are.
The Ports: Obviously, on a transatlantic crossing there aren't too many
ports! We had 5 at-sea days which we spent reading, relaxing,
occasionally sunbathing, going to the well equipped fitness center, or
napping. To us that is what vacation is all about, but I'll run you
through the ports we visited anyhow. Hamilton, Bermuda--we had rain all
day there so we didn't do all that much expect walk around Hamilton,
which seemed pretty nice. Horta, the Azores--Horta did not have much to
offer as a port town. We tendered there and got to take some nice
pictures of the ship from some hills in town. Hopefully they will come
out nice, but really nothing much to do in town. We probably should
have signed up for a nice island tour! Ponta Delgado, the Azores--Ponta
Delgado is a bigger, rather attractive town and the capitol of the
Azores. We found a nice store in a mall downtown that sold products
made on the islands that had interesting stuff. Got a nice bottle of
wine for under $5, should have bought more. We brought 2 bottles with
us to share at our dinner table, and everyone enjoyed that. Even with
the corkage fee it keeps the bar tab down! We took the Crater Lakes
tour on this island and took a bus up to the rim of a now dormant
volcano. It was breathtakingly beautiful with 2 gorgeous lakes inside
the crater with a little village nearby. Quite stunning. Hope the
pictures of that come out good! We then went to a pineapple plantation
that was skippable. In the store at the plantation they sold pineapple
liquer in some cute ceramic flasks which I thought would make nice
little gifts until I tasted the awful stuff! Oh well, it was a funny
moment for me!
Disembarking: We arrived in Lisbon and took our time having breakfast
in the dining room one last time and saw lots of our new friends one
last time. We were off the boat after our number was called in no time,
but waited on the ground over an hour for a taxi to our hotel. The
people who got the bus transfer from HAL fared little better in the
speed department. This was very frustrating and somewhat hot and
uncomfortable waiting there outside with all our luggage. HAL needs to
get it's act together I guess on long lines getting on and off the
ships. I suppose they could have had their port representatives call
for more cabs in advance?? Might have been a good idea. Lisbon was a
very charming city and I would certainly go back there. Other than the
immediate compact downtown area (charming old buildings and
pedestrianized streets) Lisbon is all hills with many charming
cobblestone streets winding their way between old buildings. Not for
people in walkers but very charming. We took a cab up to the castle and
walked down. The downtown has been largely untouched by the wrecking
ball thank goodness. We had a hotel room for the day at the Sofitel
which was close to downtown on the Avenue Liberdade, which we booked on
our own.
Late that night we hopped a cab to get on the overnight train
to Madrid. We also loved Madrid which reminded us somewhat of Vienna or
Paris, very grandiose in some ways. We toured the Royal Palace and the
Prado Museum, of course, and flew back direct to Washington, DC the next
day. My partner hates flying so that's why we went to Madrid--there
are no direct flights back to DC from Lisbon. We could have otherwise
stayed many extra nights in Lisbon which we like very much. I think we
might have to take a nice land vacation to the Iberian peninsula
sometime soon to spend more time exploring Lisbon, Madrid, but also
Sevilla, Barcelona, and maybe a beach or two, something you don't really
have time to do in depth on a cruise. But this cruise gave us a nice
taste of the region to entice us back! A nice safe way to check things
out in advance of a longer exploration.
It's more than a passing grade, and I hope I don't sound too negative
because we really did have a great time. Would we take this ship or
Holland America again? Yes probably, but we would take second seating
at dinner to get a somewhat younger crowd, although we met many older
folks whose company we thoroughly enjoyed. I think the change in
seating time probably would have been a smart change and certainly that
wasn't the cruise line's fault--we were assigned late and switched to
early thinking the extra time at night would allow us to do more after
dinner. As it was, even at sea for 5 days we felt rushed going to
dinner at 6pm! I guess also more of a passenger diversity mix would
have been preferable, but realistically going into this cruise we were
aware that on a longer sailing in an off time of the year and on HAL we
were likely to have a somewhat older crowd. It was fine though and
really we had a great time regardless--we can pretty much get along with
anyone and aren't too nit picky! The one other little oddity that we
didn't think about was that when you sail across the Atlantic West to
East you lose 5 hours to Lisbon, so there were 5 nights that we had to
move our clocks forward 1 hour! Imagine our sadness at having 23 hour
days 5 times! Next time we'll sail west and have 5 25 hour days
instead!!! Much better for catching up on all that sleep on your
vacation!
Anyhow, anyone who has any questions about the Rotterdam VI or this
cruise in particular (the ship makes 2 transatlantics a year to
reposition to/from Europe) certainly can feel free to write me with
questions!