Twenty years ago, there barely was a Playa del Carmen. It was a tiny fishing
village about 36 miles south of Cancun (which was barely there, either). The
town had no electricity; time was kept by sunrise and sunset.
Today, Playa del Carmen is a thriving port for cruise passengers, and remains
a favorite getaway spot for European travelers, who discovered it in the
early 1980s.
Cruising the western Caribbean, Playa - as it's affectionately known (the
word means "beach" in Spanish) - is almost always a port of call or a service
call for shore excursions.
About 15 years, when we were vacationing on Cozumel, my husband and I became
curious about the town across the strait. Beached-out one day, we decided to
hop the ferry and wander around Playa, then rent a car and check out the
ruins at Tulum. But there were no cars for rent, the taxi drivers must have
been taking a siesta, and there was little to do but walk on a magnificent
beach.
We came upon a small palapa restaurant/hotel where fishermen were bringing in
the day's catch. The owner, an American ex-pat who treated us to a beer,
asked if we'd like to come back in a couple of hours to consume a red snapper
that had caught our eyes. We assured him we would. As we kept walking, we
noticed the bathing suits on the sun-worshippers got smaller, and then there
were none at all. Very interesting, this Playa del Carmen.
Returning for our promised lunch, we strolled the small grounds behind the
restaurant where very basic lodging was provided (think hammocks and rum).
We sat down to the best fish we'd ever eaten, and soon the juices of tropical
fruits served as side dishes were running down our chins. We would definitely
return to Playa.
Over the next few years, we spent at least a week in or near Playa every
winter and watched the little village begin to grow as more tourists
discovered it. During the Gulf War, we trudged down the dusty main street for
the single hour of early morning TV news each day at the Chicago Sports Bar.
One year we were asked to "stand up" for a couple who'd decided to get
married in Playa. The wedding was at the Sports Bar. There were two
telephones in Playa at that time, neither of which worked.
The tourists were heavily "Euro" back then, and the same dog trotted up and down the main street. An expensive shrimp dinner set us back less than $10.
Pizza at Las Mascaras was about $3, and spaghetti at the roof garden of the
restaurant/hotel next door was even less. We laughed at the once-a-week
cruise ship passengers with sunburned knees and video cameras who walked down
the beach. The men carefully looked out to sea while filming the topless
ladies.
Times change. Today, Playa is a thriving, pulsating, happening place for
land travelers and cruise passengers alike, and we still come back at least
one a year, by land or by sea.
What used to be just a tender stop for cruisers on their way to "Coz" is now
a real port. Ships toss their lines over or tender in at what veteran
cruisers call The Gravel Pit, a few miles south of Playa. The formal name of
the port is Calica. It's not much more than a jumping-off point for shore
excursions to Tulum and Xcaret. If you want to set out on your own to see
Playa, be prepared for rapacious cab starters in Calica who charge you per
person for a taxi.
There's no bargaining at Calica, but you can cut a deal for a taxi trip back
to your ship.
Over the past year, another port on the Yucatan mainland has become a
semi-popular stop for cruise ships. Its name is Costa Maya and it's about as
far out of the way as can be. There are grand plans for Costa Maya, most of
which have not yet been realized.
STROLLING ON FIFTH AVENUE
The real Main Street of Playa del Carmen is Avenida Cinco - Fifth Avenue,
just a block from the beach. As the evening approaches the streets are closed
to cars--it's pedestrian traffic only, except for cross streets. There are
plenty of restaurants and stores--and plenty of people urging you to eat and
shop in them. The unending hustle can become wearisome.
Our highest marks for the prettiest (and most expensive) stop go to Pancho's
Fifth Avenue, where the food is terrific and the margaritas are lethal.
Along Fifth Avenue you'll find purveyors of some of the worst junk in the
universe (they expect to bargain) and some nice things, too. Silver jewelry
is always a good buy in Playa (remember to bargain!). Just make sure the
pieces you buy have the ".925" stamp on them. One-third off is a decent
deal. The closer you get to the intersection of Fifth Avenue and Tenth
Street, the higher the prices.
In Mexico, many prescription drugs may be purchased over the counter at a
price far less than you'd pay in the U.S. for prescriptions. Just make sure
you know exactly what you are getting.
For golf addicts, the course at Playacar is a challenge. Greens fees are not
inexpensive (close to $200 the last time we checked), but the clubhouse is
attractive. It's a "links" course. There are other courses further south.
SHIPS' TRIPS
The most popular shore excursions here are to Tulum and Xcaret. Tulum is the
only Mayan ruin site that fronts on the sea. The Castillo is magnificent,
but not recommended for climbing by anyone with weak knees or vertigo. Most
of the site is low-impact, and there's a jitney to carry visitors from the
main center to the ruins. There are beautiful beaches just below the ruins,
and a kilometer or so away is the risque Don Ernesto's restaurant and beach
club, where bathing suits are considered formal attire. The visitor center
at Tulum includes intense shopping possibilities, and there's even a Subway
sandwich shop if you need a taste of the U.S.
A trip to Tulum will probably include a snorkeling-resting-swimming stop at
Xel-Ha, where many cenotes (deep underground wells) are just waiting to be
explored.
The other major option is Xcaret, the Yucatan's answer to Disney World. In a stunning contrast to most shore excursions, Xcaret is a bargain. Buses run
back and forth on a frequent schedule all day while you're in port, so you
can return to the ship for lunch and then go back to swim with the dolphins.
Dolphin swimming is not inexpensive ($80 at last check), but most folks count
it as the best dolphin experience anywhere.
The park is beautifully maintained, with plenty of snack stands and some
excellent restaurants. Fast food is offered in the visitors' center along
with a well-stocked bookstore and gift shop. Alongside, there is a small
museum featuring representations of all the excavations/ruins in the Yucatan
and as far south as Guatemala.
Small Mayan ruins are scattered around the park; and there's a turtle
hatchery where you can first see baby turtles about the size of a dream in an
aquarium, then follow their growing-up process, moving from pool to pool, to
hunkering adults the size of a dishwasher with flippers.
For the semi-adventurous, swimming the underground river is a slice of
aquatic heaven. Turn in your clothes and belongings (you'll be given a key
to lock your own personal possessions bag, which will be waiting for you at
the end of the float) and just go with the flow. Minimal swimming skills and
water-comfort level are all that's required.
WAY OUT OF THE WAY
Coba, one of the least excavated Mayan ruins, is within striking distance,
but it's a mosquito-challenged, high-hiking experience. Chichen Itza, famous
for bloody sports activities centuries ago, is only practical to visit by
airplane, at considerable cost. To have a look at how the world must have
looked at the moment of creation, a visit to the Sian Kian biosphere should
be on your life list.
CANCUN
If you really want to go to Cancun (which means "nest of snakes" in Mayan -
how appropriate), there will probably be bus transportation available from
Playa, Calica, or Costa Maya.
PLAYA TODAY
There are a few more dogs, many more restaurants, and lots more stores. The
phones work on almost every corner and there are several Internet cafes.
Look for us on the beach outside the Albatross or at the bar at Limon's the
week of Thanksgiving. We'll meet the ship when you arrive.
