I wouldn't say that it was a ghost ship after 10, but certanily by 11:30. But to be fair, with two young kids, we were generally back in our cabin by 10:30 or sooner.
I guess like most cruisers - I WANT IT ALL! I'd say I'm going for the "feel" of Royal, with the "service" from HAL. The food was all good on HAL, and honestly can't complain. But, I don't think I was necessarily wowed by anything either. Trip, do you think X might be a good fit?
Our next cruise is with Disney. Even if we LOVE it, it would not be our go to, because DH and I both love to gamble! Casinos on board fuel our love our cruising.