Further info:

I just read the article, found on this site, called "Facing the Tuxedo Decision" by Pamda Kane, and I think it deserves some clarification. (With due respect to Ms. Kane, I’m not sure she understands men’s formalwear any more than most people, and she surely gets a few things wrong.)

1). You can certainly wear a black suit on formal nights if you wish, but understand something: You are wearing it as an alternative to a tuxedo, just like anyone else who wears a dark suit instead of a tux. As such, you should NOT try to imitate a tux with it by wearing a tuxedo shirt and a black bow tie. You will only look like you are pretending to wear a tux. Wear a nice (regular) tie with your dark suit, and a normal (white if you wish) suit-appropriate shirt. The only exception being that if you NORMALLY wear a bow tie, go ahead, but wear something that makes it obvious that you are not trying to make a black suit pass as a tux.

A better bet is a conservative dark gray suit with a nice tie. Let the tuxes be tuxes, you’re better off leaving the black suit at home.

2). The cummerbund is worn pleats-up because they used to have a concealed pocket sewn in that would hold your opera tickets, or whatever. While I’m sure they caught the occasional wayward crumb, it was not the intent. Remember: Unlike a suit, a dinner jacket is meant to be worn unbuttoned at all times (even while standing), making the cummerbund a necessary item if you don’t wear a vest. The only exception, of course is if you have a double-breasted dinner jacket, in which case you wear it like a suit (but don’t bother with these, unless you look particularly good in a double-breasted style – they are a hassle in general with all of the buttoning and unbuttoning)

3). True, there are no “tuxedo fashion police” on cruise ships, but that doesn’t mean that anything goes when wearing a tuxedo. (think about some of the bathing suits cruisers wear that they think look perfectly O.K. on them!) The ties and cummerbunds in wild colors and prints (or matching your date’s dress) are best left to your senior prom or the demands of being part of a particular wedding party. It is NOT simply a matter of self-expression, nor is it correct just because some celebrity does it at the Golden Globes (i.e. bolo ties). Black tie is the second most formal attire for a gentleman (white tie is the first) and as such, it has strict rules and conventions. Wear the peach tie and cummerbund if you insist, but understand that you do not look like you are wearing formal black tie – you look like you escaped from a prom to hunt up some more liquor for your punch-spiking flask! A black bow tie and cummerbund is appropriate, classy, readily available for cheap, and is the only real answer.

4). Shirt studs. “Those awful black plastic "onyx" studs and links are just that - awful - and scream "rental."” No, Ms. Kane, they scream correct. They’re cheap maybe, but correct. A black tux should be worn with shirt studs that are traditionally black onyx. Whether you want to invest in a set that is genuine onyx or not is your business, but black onyx (faux or otherwise) is perfectly appropriate (I wear cheapies, myself). Believe me, there are plenty of other things that scream rental, if that’s all you are worried about! Worry about the peach colored cummerbund first! But if you do find a nice set of studs and links that look good with your black tux (maybe in gold or hematite), give it a shot. Just realize that proper is conservative, so try to restrain yourself from wearing studs with the head of your favorite Dilbert character on them, or the always-tasteless $. But remember, all of your jewelry, which will include your watch, your shirt studs, your cufflinks, your suspender hardware, should have the same metal tone (gold or silver), and will preferably match your dates jewelry in color. Typical is gold for a black dinner jacket and silver for a white dinner jacket, but don’t feel too constrained to that.

5). A white dinner jacket (a nice variation that looks great on most men) is appropriate for summer months, outdoor parties, or tropical cruises. Just like the black dinner jacket, it is worn with a black bow tie and a black cummerbund (avoid the vests here, since it’s a warm weather look). The only difference is that you normally wear white suspenders instead of black ones. (more on suspenders in a second.) Personally, I think a white dinner jacket is the best place to experiment with different studs and links. Don’t forget that it is considered to be just as formal as a black dinner jacket, but if you find some nice blue lapis lazuli studs that will look good with it – go for it.

6). Adjustable trousers are a reasonable, but unnecessary option. Proper tuxedo trousers are tailored to fit you loosely at the waist. Then you wear suspenders (braces) to hold the trousers up. Sure, you can wear cheaper, untailored, trousers that have to be cinched-in to fit, but why? Have your trousers tailored to fit properly, then use the suspenders to keep them up. It’s simpler and more comfortable. (And remember that the purpose of the cummerbund is to cover the waist of whatever type of trouser you choose to wear.)

Ms. Kane is doing a disservice to men who do and know how to dress formally when she implies that only really old people hold the line on what’s proper with a tux and that the unconventional is better. With a tuxedo, correct is ALWAYS appropriate, and you are surer to step into dangerous territory by experimenting. You want to look classy, not like you escaped from a wedding, and I ASSURE you, you will stand out as surely as a guy in shorts if you try to “personalize” your look too much.

One final thought: Wear the proper shoes. Do NOT wear your black leather oxfords that you wear to work every day. Even if you shine them up bright, they are still just work shoes. The most proper is actually patent leather slippers with a satin bow on top. Yes, you read that right (trust me, it’s not as bad as it sounds!). But you are perfectly O.K. wearing any black patent leather lace-ups. Personally, I wear black patent lace ups with a satin topping (a nice look). Just avoid the work shoes.

Black tie is the best that most men will ever dress. It is easy to do it correctly, and in this case, correct is better. Help your date shine by being seen as her man, who knows how to properly wear a tux. If she’s like my wife, she will appreciate it and it will encourage her to try to top you ! (Just make sure you always tell her that she has.)