Totem Bight is about 12 miles from downtown?? But Saxman Village which is only 2 needs a guide in my opinion. It is not self guided and a great part of the reason to go there is the stories behind the totems. If you just want a look at totems, there are plenty to see right in the down town area including some very nice ones out the back of the Fox Westmark hotel- just take the funicular up and go out the back.
I was just there a couple weeks ago, no longer is the carving shed open to most independent tours. But you can look in the windows. Another option if you still do the cab, sometimes guides were in the past, available from the gift shop.
Tour buses, which are really school buses converted to haul tourists around, take you to the totems and back to the ferry. There are several to choose from offering different tours, pretty cheap at $20 or so.