Holland America Line Prinsendam by Count Florida New York to
Amsterdam June 3, 2002
Holland American MV Prinsendam - Other Destination - see details
in review Dates: June 3, 2002 from New York to Southampton 6/13/02,
Copenhagen 6/26/02, and Amsterdam 710/02 Review by Count Florida
(count_florida@hotmail.com) INAUGURAL VOYAGES OF HOLLAND-AMERICAN'S
PRINSENDAM Many passengers on the first few voyages of
Holland-American Line's Prinsendam believed (some had read ) that
it was a new ship. Most, however, seemed aware it was the former
Royal Viking (later Seabourn) Sun, supposedly comprehensively
overhauled and refurbished. Both views were mistaken, or perhaps,
mislead. It's well-advertised 2002 overhaul was neither
comprehensive or complete when on June 3, 2002, the ship sailed
from New York bound for Southampton via Halifax, Cobh and Plymouth.
Holland-American had taken the Sun and attempted to transform it
into their "Elegant Explorer". It might be an explorer, but it's
not very elegant.
The Sun was one of the world's most luxurious ships 10-12 years
ago. Today, even after overhaul, it is a tired, somewhat worn-down
dowager of a ship with new engines and refurbished public spaces.
The loyal Holland-American crew tried to cope with its numerous
problems and
limitations, but nothing could overcome the hyped up expectations
that resulted in a full ship on the inaugural crossing and the
third leg through the Baltic on 6/26. My wife and I endured a
standard cabin on Main (6) deck for the first three cruises of the
Prinsendam: Transatlantic, European Highlights, and Baltic Summer,
June 3rd to July 10th. There is limited storage space in this type
of cabin, just four small drawers and a narrow tower of shelves in
the closet, mainly to hold the safe.
The condition of some cabins was appalling. A couple at our
table, with several hundred days cruising on Holland-American and
the medallions to show for it, were almost flooded out of their
penthouse suite. The woman had an expensive designer handbag
ruined, and the carpet was damp and musty-smelling for much of the
rest of the crossing. While she was finally compensated (a credit
to her on-board account), they told us the ship was nothing like
the usual Holland-American cruise experience. This theme was
repeated numerous times by others, including one honest ship's
officer and many crew members. Perhaps the Prinsendam is the
exception.
When we boarded this supposedly "completely refurbished" ship,
our cabin was shabby - worn carpet, chipped furniture, and two
dilapidated-looking single beds rather than the queen configuration
requested. Worse yet, there was hair all over the very small
(barely adequate) bath, and nail clippings on the rug in the cabin.
My wife just despises hair and personal filth! It took our room
steward a couple of days to get us ice, almost a week to find us a
bath mat, and the cabin was always stuffy no matter what was done
to the thermostat.
While service in the dining room was quite good, in the Lido it
was marginal, and on occasion we heard crew complaining that the
Lido's kitchen and buffet facilities were not able to handle the
number of passengers on board. At peak times, you had to hunt or
wait to find a place to sit. More than one crew member told us the
cooks in the Lido were furious over the wretched situation.
Initially, room service was just awful. We had breakfast in our
cabin most mornings. Every morning for the first six or seven days
something was wrong. No bread or rolls one morning. No butter
another. Then they brought an empty coffee pot! Often, the cream we
ordered came as low-fat milk. After a while, things improved, but
the service was never up to the standards we are used to, not
nearly. Overall, the quality and variety of the food was pretty
good on the crossing, but seemed to deteriorate thereafter,
possibly because the menu repeated each segment. Perhaps the best
testament to the food is I actually lost weight on this extended
cruise! Unbelievable; but there is a first time for everything.
The alternate restaurant, the Odyssey, was good, but the menu
was limited and remained static for the entire 37 days of all three
cruises. And it made the Prinsendam a two-class ship: passengers in
suites could eat breakfast and lunch in the Odyssey, while the rest
of us were allowed in only for dinner, and then if and only if
there was room after suite passengers had been accommodated. After
a month-long round-the-world cruise experience in Grill class on
Cunard's QE2, we would not knowingly have booked again on a ship
with class distinctions. One table-mate enjoying a suite (not the
ones with the flood) often mentioned how relaxed the Odyssey was at
breakfast or lunch, rubbing in the contrast with the long lines and
scarce seating in the Lido. Tipped off by our astute travel agent,
we managed to eat dinner in the Odyssey twice, once on each of the
first two legs. We didn't even try to make reservations the third
cruise; there was nothing else on Odyssey's menu we wanted to
try.
Perhaps the most annoying part was the constant "nickel and
dimeing" and over-charging we faced throughout the trip. The tours
seemed expensive, compared to what we've paid on other cruise lines
as recently as April-May of this year. The quality of these
high-priced tours, particularly the food and busses or trains, left
much to be desired. On board, a coke or a small bottle of water,
even with a meal, cost $1.95. A liter bottle of water in your cabin
was $2.00 some times, $2.50 others. They charged $5. for a single
shot of Doubonet. I've been drinking Doubonet before dinner for
more than thirty years, off and on, but have never once seen it
poured using a shot glass before! A liter bottle of Doubonet cost
us just over $8. in a small (taxed) grocery store in Ireland. We
stocked up on beer, tonic and snacks in Halifax, then picked up
some reasonably priced gin in the ship's store. That, and a couple
of timely wine purchases ashore took care of our basic needs.
Shipboard computer access to the Internet was 75¢ a minute!
When you read the small print, it turned out that rate was for any
use of a computer! Not just when you are accessing the internet.
Any use. They didn't even have Word or Excel installed! "Use
WordPad", the attendant said! Simply outrageous! We were able to
access the Internet in most ports at usually reasonable cost, not
more than a dollar or two per hour. The ultimate fleecing came when
they started charging $5.00 per person each way for the port
shuttle on the third (Baltic) leg of our cruise. In one port,
better public transport for the same trip was five Swedish Krone,
about .55 cents US! We learned to ride local trams and busses, and
walked a lot. A healthier alternative.
Holland-American offers a number of "deals", so many pieces of
laundry, a number of bottles of wine, etc., for one price. I signed
up for 100 minutes of "internet time" on one of these deals, only
to learn the real facts when I read the fine print (see above). Our
gripe is that multi-segment guests couldn't carry over unused
allocations to subsequent segments; everything was based on each
individual cruise segment. We personally discussed this with the
ship's hotel director. He made it very clear that each cruise stood
on its own, no matter how long you stayed on board, no discussion.
They had to balance their records and accounts! The bean-counters
win again!
A lot of critical things on board were broken, and no one seemed
able to fix them. The sprinkler system leaked. We never saw the
four elevators working all at the same time. Often two or even
three would be out of service. And four elevators is not nearly
enough for a ship with nearly 800 passengers, many of whom are
elderly and unable to manage the stairs. Only the forward elevators
went to four deck and the tenders. When the plight of a
wheelchair-bound guest unable to get to the tenders because both
forward elevators were out of service was reported to a front desk
Guest Services staffer, she said, "Thank you, sir, We'll take care
of that right away" then promptly went back to counting stamps! You
could hear the poor woman crying in the Atrium from a floor away -
she had apparently been abandoned or trapped there. Even after a
complaint to the hotel director, including the staffers' name with
the time and full particulars, nothing changed at the front desk;
it remained unresponsive and defensive. They couldn't even get a
guest's name right; not even after three tries!
Our cabin was on Main (6) Deck next to the gangway, amidships on
the port side. We had complained and asked to be assigned another
cabin weeks before embarkation, to no avail. The gang-plank
squealed like it was corroded or worse. Everywhere we docked with
the port side to the pier, we were awakened (often quite early) to
the sound of doors banging, motors running, and the gang-plank
bumping and screeching. My wife never found the clothes washers all
working at the same time, so there was often a long wait. On the
crossing, there was no place in the laundry to sit while waiting,
and one of the two irons was broken.
Leaving Copenhagen June 26th after a late sailing, we were
awakened just before 2 AM by a loud screeching noise; it sounded
just awful. Turned out to be the pilot boat, scraping its
tire-bumpers along the hull as it nudged alongside to pick up the
pilot, and lasted ± five minutes. Another night the smoke
detector in our cabin went off around 3 AM. Never did find out why,
but it sure was loud. It also went off occasionally when you took a
shower. When we complained, we were told they were "sensitive" for
our protection. Hard to believe.
I don't want to give the impression that everything was awful;
it wasn't. The itinerary was well planned and quite interesting. We
had a complete if quick look at a part of the world we hadn't seen
before, guided by a truly outstanding port lecturer. The
overwhelming majority of the crew tried to make the trip
comfortable and enjoyable. The casino used the more reasonable
American blackjack rules, and the team there was friendly and
helpful. Many of the problems were perhaps beyond anyone on board's
ability to fix, given the schedule. The ship clearly needed more
time in rehab; many tasks just weren't finished when she left
Charleston for her New York "inaugural". The crew also needed more
time to become familiar with the ship and work out its kinks.
Holland-American should have been more candid, in both its
literature and touting, that the Prinsendam was a rehabilitated, 14
year old ship. When you pay a premium, you expect a superior
product. They did not deliver!
What we did manage to get out of all this was an interesting
overview of western and northern Europe. The initial attraction for
us was a comprehensive tour where you moved into one room (cabin)
and it moved with you. Our "tour" left from New York, called at
Halifax, Nova Scotia, and included two ports each in Ireland,
England, France, Spain, Norway and Denmark, three in Sweden, with
single port calls in Northern Ireland, Finland, Russia (overnight),
Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania and Germany. After transiting the Kiel
Canal, it finally ended 37 days later in Amsterdam, Netherlands. We
didn't enjoy every port; in fact, we would have passed by some for
more time in others. Two ports per country seemed about right.
Applying that to Sweden, by-passing either Visby or Kalmar would
have allowed an overnight in Stockholm; a single day there is not
nearly enough. Having both Ireland port calls on its south coast
(Cobh and Waterford) was a waste. Substituting Dublin for Waterford
(normally a tender port) would have been a lot better. We left Oslo
too early to see that city properly; early morning flights of
departing passengers from Copenhagen apparently forced that
decision. Too bad.
Although port calls in each of the Baltic states seemed an
attractive feature of the itinerary, they proved to be a repetitive
disappointment, particularly right after the splendors of St.
Petersburg. Two days in St. Petersburg was not enough either, even
though the Russian visa "squeeze" limited us to the overly
expensive ship's tours. Other lines spend three days (two nights)
in St. Petersburg, and have more and better tour offerings. This
city was the site of one of the most heroic siege defenses in all
history: 900 days during World War II. Some lines offer tours
highlighting this epic struggle, but none was available from
Holland-American, unfortunately.
Based on our experience, the tours available seemed highly
overpriced. From Belfast, the ship's full day tour to the Giant
Causeway with lunch was $122 per person. Four of us went on the
pier and rented a taxi with driver for about five hours, got a
two-part tour of Belfast on the way out and in, plus the Giant
Causeway for $120. A nice two-course lunch with drinks at the
Bushmills Inn, the same place the tour ate, cost my wife and I $45.
with tip. We had time for shopping in downtown Belfast where the
taxi dropped us at the end of our tour. We saw more in less time at
less than half the cost, even viewing some fallout from "the
troubles": bricks in the street and nasty signs. The only glitch
was the return shuttle bus was not where the ship's tour office
said it would be. I spotted and flagged it down at a traffic light,
but others weren't so lucky. The tour office on board was good at
selling tours, but hard to find open. The saving grace was Frank,
the port lecturer, a truly amazing man. What a font of knowledge!
His advice was invariably accurate, unbiased, comprehensive and
witty. Bravo!
Overall, there were a number of good tours, including the one to
Kinsale from Cobh, the hastily arranged tour to Stonehenge and
Salisbury from Southampton, the tour of Bilbao and its new museum,
and the Hermitage at the Winter Palace in St. Petersburg. After
taking a wine country tour from Bordeaux, we were skeptical of the
price vs. value, and especially careful about booking . On the
Bordeaux tour, the bus was uncomfortable, the guide poor, and the
winery awful. We were given a single glass of a white wine which I
suspect didn't sell very well.
The worst tour rip-off was the 13½ hour tour to Berlin
from Warnemunde at $298 per person. The train was old and shabby,
much like parts of the ship. The "snacks" provided were awful. They
didn't even have coffee on the train, which left at 7:30 AM. Our
guide in Berlin was an archetypical German, straight by the book.
He seemed inexperienced, and stood faced back into the bus instead
of sitting facing forward, paying attention to where we were, and
commenting on what we were actually seeing. Consequently, his talk
was often out of sync with what we were passing, but he rigidly
stuck to his script, even when passengers asked what he was talking
about. He gave us long break at the Brandenburg Gate, which you
couldn't even see as it was being repaired, shrouded in a huge ad!
This caused us to fall behind schedule, so he by-passed the
Reichstag, one of the more interesting sights, to insure we were on
time for lunch! No German is late! Ever! It is Verboten!
After lunch we had a break in a shopping district, but it was
Sunday. Stores aren't open in Germany on Sunday. We could window
shop. It was just a little too far away from a lively, interesting
looking flea market we had passed to get there and back,
independently during the break. Why not take our break there?
Absolutely not! Why, someone might enjoy themselves and forget the
time! The final indignity occurred when they took us back out to
East Berlin to catch the train to Warnemunde. Wait! First, we had
to pick up the passengers who took the longer Berlin tour ending in
Potsdam, far to the west. So for an hour and a half we rode around
Berlin, through what seemed an endless train yard, to the Potsdam
station. Only then could we begin the 2½ hour trek back to
the ship at Warnemunde! The "snack" on the way back (which the
hotel director personally told me would be "substantial"), was a
stale bagel with less than a smear of cheese and wilted lettuce,
with juice, a piece of candy and fruit. An unpleasant end to a
long, disappointing day in a very interesting city. The good news
was they kept the Lido open so we could get a bite to eat when we
finally got back on board.
The tours in St. Petersburg were quite good, particularly the
Hermitage. This is a truly magnificent building, full of impressive
art and artifacts, many with interesting stories. The quirk was
that our guide, usually quite thorough, basically refused to guide
us through the modern (20th century) galleries at the back of the
building. She told us we could walk through them and meet her at
the far end in 20 minutes or so. Then she disappeared. Later I
asked her why, but got no real answer. I suspect she felt the
modern pieces aren't real art. Next day, the tour of Imperial St.
Petersburg with hydrofoil (boat) ride on the Neva River to Petrohof
was interesting but a little too long. The bus driver nearly flew
on the way back; I guess they were afraid we'd miss the boat.
Earlier, the tour of Bilbao and its new Frank Gerry-designed
titanium sheeted Guggenheim Museum was fascinating. Bilbao is a
really intriguing urban setting with many squares surrounded by
four and five story buildings. At street level are shops and other
retail businesses. On the floor just above are professional
offices, above that are apartments. Just the mix that makes for a
lively, livable city! The spectacular museum seems to have acted as
a catalyst to bring Bilbao to life. In this new museum are many
interesting pieces. We've visited the new Getty Museum in Los
Angeles and the Massachusetts MOMA in North Adams in the past two
years. Both are spectacular spaces, without much to show in them
yet. Bilbao's Guggenheim doesn't have this shortcoming. I'd like to
go back and see more of Bilbao. Another highlight was the day-long
transit of the Kiel Canal, which separates Denmark and the Jutland
peninsula from the bulk of Germany. All in all, a nice day.
This extended tour confirmed our strategy of getting away from
the crowd, going off on our own, or with another couple, and
exploring. We did that a lot; basically we saw Scandinavia that
way. The cities, museums, and historical sites, the castles and
fortresses. But mainly the people. We ate and drank in street cafes
and watched them go by. We rode the trams and walked the shopping
streets, looking for bargains, and even did some bargaining
ourselves. We saw lots of nice, attractive people. Many spoke
English. Never a problem in Scandinavia, and even in France we got
by without a hassle. We found tours sold on the ship were often
available ashore for as little as half the on-board cost. Better,
we found compatible English-speaking taxi drivers, and listening to
what they thought was the best use of our time. If we liked what we
heard, we hired them to show it to us. That worked well. The only
glitch was in Amsterdam, where the highly touted Floriade, a
once-in-ten-year flower show, turned out to be over-rated and
over-priced, not worth even a side trip. The canal tour there, even
though recorded sequentially in five languages, was interesting,
and the walk back from Central Station to our hotel on the
Prinsengracht near the Anne Frank House, a must see itself, was
even better.
We found the Anne Frank House open evenings, allowing us to
avoid the long lines seen earlier in the day. Touring the house
where eight people hid from the Nazis for more than two years,
experiencing the feel and size of the spaces where they lived, ate,
slept, etc., is a moving, truly unsettling experience. The excerpts
from this young girl's diary in the exhibits were particularly
effective in conveying the essence of the experience. It forces you
to wonder how a civilized people could allow such things to happen,
let alone actually do them. Hitler and his henchmen didn't
personally carry out these atrocities, the German people and their
cohorts in, for example, Norway, Holland and Eastern Europe did.
The place stopped us cold, it was just simply frightening.
After this emotional stop, we had dinner at "Moeders", a nearby
Dutch restaurant where we shared a huge sampler-type meal with
beer, wonderfully served by three charming, over-worked but
cheerful women. This was our last night away, and a good finale to
our overly long trip. We were really happy to be home the next
night!
We've traveled widely, and had earlier cruised with Cunard
twice, Celebrity once, and Radisson three times. We've never been
as dissatisfied or disillusioned as we are after this trip. Travel
is just getting to be too much of a hassle to be enjoyable. Not
only was the cruise disappointing, but the five star "preferred
hotel" I selected in Amsterdam and the business class flight home
were both at best second-rate, if that. We were awakened by bright
sunlight leaking around the drapes in the Pulitzer Hotel before 6
AM both mornings, even after we asked to have them fixed. Many of
the towels in this so-called "luxury" hotel were threadbare. On the
9½ hour Martinair business class flight to Orlando, we were
stuffed into very tight seats with limited legroom and atrocious
food. Orlando international arrivals is a debilitating, two-stage,
delay-prone trial, even if you're rested and fit, which I wasn't
and am not.
I do lots of research, both on-line (Internet), by talking to
people: fellow cruisers and travel agents, and by reading
everything I can get my hands on. Fool me once, shame on you; fool
me twice, shame on me. I sure was fooled this time. So we're
re-thinking our future travel and cruise plans. Right now, our
planned 30+ day trans-Pacific cruise to Australia this fall or next
winter is on hold, indefinitely. Perhaps a summer place in the
Adirondacks is a better use of our discretionary dollars, vs. the
frequent traveling we've been spending them on.
In our opinion, the June 3 - July 12 inaugural voyages of
Holland American's Prinsendam from New York to Southampton, then
around western Europe to Copenhagen, and finally through the Baltic
and on to Amsterdam, was nearer an ordeal than the wonderful
vacation we had planned and anticipated. My wife's been known to be
tartly critical before, but this time her terse opinion is right on
the mark: a bummer!