We were there on the Century this June, we rented a Jeep for the day from Budget for a total of about $100 and then drove around the island until we found a place to settle. We ended up at Mr. Sancho's beach club which was great. Not too crowded, spotless bathrooms and shower facilities. We ordered an appetizer sampler which was huge and very yummy and had a frozen cocktail a beer and two sodas for $30 including tip. Their water is filtered so no fear of ice etc. The current is very strong so snorkeling was a little exhausting but we swam pretty far out and saw some fish and little tiny ray.
I thoroughly recommend renting some type of vehicle and driving around until you find a beach place that appeals to you, Some of them charge and entrance fee, many do not. There are party places, familt places and secluded places - something for everyone. The southern and eastern sides of the island offer some gorgeous pristine beaches and are just breathtaking....
I called the Reef Club yesterday and they said the day use fee for using the beach was $28.00 each. We plan to take a taxi there and stay the day on the beach. Around 4 pm we will have the taxi take us to town and hang at Carlos and Charlies until time to go back to the ship.
ME AND MY WIFE SNORKELED FOR THE FIRST TIME IN COZUMEL. WE WERE ON THE FURY SAIL BOAT. AFTER ONE HOUR IN THE WATER WE RUSHED HOME AND BOUGHT ALL THE GEAR. WE ARE GOING BACK IN FEB. 2004 YOU SHOULD TRY TO SNORKEL. IT DOES NOT TAKE LONG YOU STILL SHOULD HAVE TIME FOR THE BEACHES.